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Thread: 12V RPM switch?

  1. #11
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    Dec 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubbedstangeater View Post
    I configured the sensor trigger as RPM, above 4500 RPM to activate ground on B10. I pinned it too.
    OK, now I see what you're referring to. Your yellow colored "2 stage boost" Output is color coded correctly.
    In the Pin Map - Outputs screen, the green colored Outputs (Electric Fan #1) are from Basic I/O - System ICF.
    Are you sure you connected the wire to the correct output pin (8-wire Inputs/Outputs harness connector)?
    To connect up to 4 Inputs & Outputs to the EFI main harness, use I/O Auxiliary Harness 558-400.
    If programmed and wired correctly, it should work fine. I have plenty of custom created I/O.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & MT 245/45R17 tires.

  2. Default

    B10 is G on the J1 connector right? Gray/Black wire?

  3. #13
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    Dec 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubbedstangeater View Post
    B10 is G on the J1 connector right? Gray/Black wire?
    Yes, output B10 is on the J1 connector in the EFI software.
    B10 is cavity G on the "Inputs/Outputs" harness connector (from the P1B ECU main harness connector).
    But the output wire isn't connected directly to the ECU main harness connector.
    It's connected to the 8-wire "Inputs/Outputs" harness connector, a short distance from the ECU.
    Look toward the center of the wiring diagrams on pages 30 & 31:
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & MT 245/45R17 tires.

  4. Default

    Okay I found the issue after I scoped everything with a meter. I don't run a heater system in the car because it's a summer vehicle. I checked the voltage supply I used from the from the heater controls. When I turned the switch one voltage dropped to 1 volt from 12V. I went to another source that is fused in car already. It works now. It must have been a supply that won't allow amperage. Sorry Danny.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubbedstangeater View Post
    Sorry Danny.
    No need to apologize...I'm glad I could help.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & MT 245/45R17 tires.

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