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Thread: 12V RPM switch?

  1. Default 12V RPM switch?

    Is it possible to start a 12V switch as an output based on a MAP value or RPM? I'm running a manual two stage boost controller and I'd like to run low settings as is, but as I hit 4500 I'd like it to kick 12V to the Turbosmart valve for the high settings I set it at. I played with the configuration in outputs but I think I'm missing something. Called Holley Tech too late today.
    Last edited by tubbedstangeater; 06-28-2013 at 08:36 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubbedstangeater View Post
    Is it possible to start a 12V switch as an output based on a MAP value or RPM?
    Yes. Create a custom Output:
    Click on the I/O ICF and Outputs.
    Name it, select Type, Enable it & Configure it.
    Select the Sensor Input Triggers and the activation criteria.
    You can choose MAP & RPM or either of the two for activation.

    It must be Pin-Mapped to an available J1 connector output pin; click "View Outputs" on the Pin Map.
    Then click & drag it to an available J1 Connector pin. Now you can run this wire to your relay.
    A relay must be used because all the ECU's Outputs are rated at a maximum of 2 amps.

    To connect up to 4 Inputs & Outputs to the EFI Main Harness, use I/O Auxiliary Harness 558-400.
    Eight Wire I/O Auxiliary Harness Connector Pin-Out (also in the Holley EFI Wiring Manual - LINK):
    Pin A...A12...White/Blue (Input #1) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin B...A3....White/Red (Input #2) F,5,2,T,H,G
    Pin C...A13...White/Black (Input #3) F,5,G
    Pin D...A4....White/Green (Input #4) F,5,G
    Pin E...B12...Gray/Yellow (Output #1) H,P+
    Pin F...B11...Gray/Red (Output #2) H,P+
    Pin G...B10...Gray/Black (Output #3) G,P−
    Pin H...B3....Gray/Green (Output #4) G,P−
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10516.pdf (Holley 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness Instructions)
    The 558-400 I/O Auxiliary Harness is 20 feet long, and it's "plug & play" into the EFI main harness.

    If the I/O menu icon (ICF) isn't already uploaded (added) to the top Toolbar, follow these instructions:
    (This same procedure applies to all the various Individual Configuration menu icons/items.)
    The "I/O" function is an "Individual Configuration" of the Holley EFI software.
    At top of screen, Click "Toolbox" and "Add Individual Config".
    At top of new window, select "Individual Configuration Library".
    At bottom of new window, select "Holley EFI Inputs/Outputs Config".
    Select "I/O" and open "Base Config - Blank.io".
    The "I/O" icon will then be present at top of screen.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. Default

    Do you think it would be best to run a 12 volt toggle switch in car to power on the device when I'm wanting a two stage and just run the negative through Holley? Or would a key-on 12 volts be best from car then run the negative through the Holley? I like the switch idea because it will always be on low boost settings, then when I'm at the track I can flip switch and the car will see second stage. This makes it easy cause the ECU settings will never have to be changed. I'll just flip a 12 volt switch in car for on and the car will do the negative ground when it hits the trigger. And then I can leave it off around town but the trigger will still work but will have no power supply to the valve and I won't have to fiddle with I/O.
    Last edited by tubbedstangeater; 06-29-2013 at 06:27 AM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubbedstangeater View Post
    Or would a key-on 12 volts be best from car then run the negative through the Holley?
    The ECU custom Output only provides 12V or ground to the relay's coil side (energizing the relay).
    The contact side of the relay can still provide 12V or ground to the component you're controlling.
    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf (Understanding Relays)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    The ECU custom Output only provides 12V or ground to the relay's coil side (energizing the relay).
    The contact side of the relay can still provide 12V or ground to the component you're controlling.
    http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf (Understanding Relays)
    I guess the controller pulls 1 amp

  6. Default

    So your implying that I should install a relay instead of fusing it for 2 amp no matter how I configure it. Right now I run my fan using the negative side on the relay to energize the coil. Is this acceptable or safe?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tubbedstangeater View Post
    So your implying that I should install a relay instead of fusing it for 2 amp no matter how I configure it.
    No, everything should be properly fused. A relay is never a substitute for a fuse.
    If that boost controller never draws more than 2 amps, then you won't need the relay (unless you're using it for additional control criteria).

    Right now I run my fan using the negative side on the relay to energize the coil. Is this acceptable or safe?
    You mean the ECU transmits a ground trigger to the electric fan relay's coil?
    Yes, that's how my electric fan relay is wired. (It's also safer than triggering with +12V.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  8. Default

    I finally got time to wire it in and get the second I/O configured by using an RPM input to trigger a negative for the controller. When I go to pin the output it is showing as a yellow instead of green like the others. It is the B10 output gray and black wire. Is there somewhere else I have to turn on like a PWM-? I tried the switch, on road with a meter attached and it's not working. I'm getting 12V to unit to chassis ground but the negative through the ECU isn't triggering. I thought the pin/yellow color might mean it's not fully configured? Is there something I'm missing? Does the pin area trigger/output have to be illuminating green?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tubbedstangeater View Post
    When I go to pin the output it is showing as a yellow instead of green like the others.
    On the Pin Map, the yellow items are Outputs and the green items are Inputs.

    Is there somewhere else I have to turn on like a PWM-?
    Did you program the custom Output & Type, and configure it in the Inputs/Outputs ICF?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. Default





    I configured the sensor trigger as RPM, above 4500 RPM to activate ground on B10. I pinned it too.

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