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Thread: Engine ran, then died...now not starting.

  1. #1

    Default Engine ran, then died...now not starting.

    Hi everyone! New to the forum.

    I am working on my boat which has an '86 351 Windsor (found on the Ford F150 and some others) and it has a Holley 4160.

    I've gotten the boat up and running a few times this year but never actually left it on for long (was running last year). This Saturday I left it running - and it sounded nice! - but then it died after about 10 minutes and haven't been able to get it started again. When it died, it sounded like it was running out of fuel but I had just put about 10 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank.

    After it died, I tried starting it again a few times with no luck. After a few minutes of letting the engine rest, I poured a little fuel in the carb and it started but died after a few seconds. It's weird because I can pump the throttle and I can see fuel being sprayed in the carb (and the fuel pump is new).

    I wanted to ask what it could be that I'm missing? Any help would be awesome!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by awesomesteven View Post
    After a few minutes of letting the engine rest, I poured a little fuel in the carb and it started but died after a few seconds.
    This indicates you have a fuel delivery problem (or fuel isn't flowing inside the carburetor) and that the ignition is firing.

    It's weird because I can pump the throttle and I can see fuel being sprayed in the carb (and the fuel pump is new).
    Remove the fuel bowl sight plug and verify there's fuel inside. Also check the operation of the float/needle & seat valve(s).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks DC.

    I wasn't able to do this yesterday but I'm going to give it a shot today.

    I should also mention that last time it ran, the throttle had to be pumped a couple of times before the engine would start (cold start). Once started, if it was left at idle speed (600-700 RPMs), it would die out - so I had to have it warm up at about 1,200 RPMs and then I could bring t back down to it's normal idle speed. If the engine was warm - this wouldn't be a problem.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Quote Originally Posted by awesomesteven View Post
    I should also mention that last time it ran, the throttle had to be pumped a couple of times before the engine would start (cold start).
    That's typical of most carburetors. One or two pumps, primes the intake manifold with fuel for an easier start.
    Also, the first throttle pump automatically sets the carburetor's choke blade (enrichment) and fast idle cam (high idle).

    Once started, if it was left at idle speed (600-700 RPMs), it would die out - so I had to have it warm up at about 1,200 RPMs and then I could bring it back down to it's normal idle speed.
    As I mentioned, the carburetor's choke and fast idle should function properly to prevent this.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks again DC.

    I have the carb that doesn't have the sight plug and I have to adjust the floats by taking the fuel bowls off. It turns out that they were flooded. I got the rebuild kit and put it together the other day. Now I'm just charging the battery - guess all that cranking kills the batt pretty quick, ha ha.

    Aside from taking the fuel bowls off, is there a short cut way to check the fuel level for future reference?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,903

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    Quote Originally Posted by awesomesteven View Post
    Aside from taking the fuel bowls off, is there a short cut way to check the fuel level for future reference?
    Without sight plugs, I guess not.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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