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Thread: Does Holley model 2300 1-684 have a C.A.R.B. E.O. number?

  1. #31

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    Was I supposed to get the 1-591 perhaps? Maybe the 1-684 is not the right one?

  2. #32

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    Transmission shop is done. They said they adjusted it as much as they could. You can still feel the shifts, but they are not too hard of shifts. They occur in about the right place, but sometimes are quirky. Not perfect as far as the feel, but OK. At least better than before. Car requires quite a lot of warming up still, in order not to die in drive or idling. After the car is warmed up, it is driveable. Something does need adjusted there. How do I adjust it? The idle?

    I might just go back to the Variable Venturi after all. The only options for smog rules here in Cali was this Holley, or the original Variable Venturi.

    Someone online suggested I remove the throttle arm from a variable venturi, in order to reuse it. Not sure if it can be removed, but I'll look into that.

  3. #33

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    I've adjusted the choke one notch. Only two more notches on that side. Didn't notice any difference. Car still has to warm up for awhile before it can be driven. I'm assuming by adjusting counter clockwise that I'm making it richer. Maybe try another notch or two, or the idle also.

  4. #34

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    I was backing the car out of the garage after an oil change, and the engine began to rev real high. Something felt like it got stuck (my first thought was the accelerator). But when I shut the car down and looked at the carburetor, the choke had in the back a spring with a screw that was not making contact with the rubber piece that interferes with the opening of the carb for air. It had jammed to one side and prevented any movement, but the air vent was stuck open. I was able to loosen that screw and make sure it was back in line with the cog plastic red thingy. Car seems to be running normally again. Actually starts and idle seems to be a lot better.

    Should I get a mechanic to take another look at it, or did I just troubleshoot my own problem? I drove it around a bit and all seems OK, but I'm no expert when it comes to carbs.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    18,693

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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    I drove it around a bit and all seems OK, but I'm no expert when it comes to carbs.
    I'd thoroughly inspect each throttle linkage/lever to ensure nothing else is bent. (Everything should be straight and in proper alignment.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  6. #36

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    No high revving anymore. And everything looks OK as far as bent or binding, Danny. However, the cold start issue seems to have come back the next day.

    Adjusting the choke face doesn't seem to make any difference, and even tried turning the fast idle screw to a few different lengths. Recently, my brother tried his voltmeter and even with the key in the on position, there was not 12V going to the choke. So we think it's not getting any power. Traced the wire to a hose of wires nearby, so the mechanic must have used some existing source (variable venturi was chokeless). But figure it must not be a good power source or not on, when the key is in the on position. Even starting the car there is no volts. So where is a good place to draw a 12V source? Some place in the fuse box, and then run a wire through the firewall to the choke?

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    18,693

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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    Even starting the car there is no volts. So where is a good place to draw a 12V source? Some place in the fuse box, and then run a wire through the firewall to the choke?
    Yes, do what you have to do, if you can't find +12V nearby. There must be some keyed +12V component in the engine compartment.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.

    '78 BRONCO: 508" stroker, TFS heads, 11:1 comp ratio, Dominator MPFI & DIS, cold air induction, Spal dual 12" fans/aluminum radiator, dual 3" exhaust/Magnaflow mufflers, Moroso vacuum pump, Accusump, engine oil & trans fluid coolers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, A/C, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2500 RPM converter, 3:1 Atlas II, modified Dana 44/60-lockers-4.10s, hydroboost/4-disc brakes, ram-assist/heim joint steering, Cage long radius arms, traction bars, 4" Skyjacker lift, 35" mud tires

  8. #38

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    Well, I did run a wire to the choke from the fuse box. The choke is getting +12V now when I turn the key. With the key in the on position, it opens fairly quickly no matter which way I turn the choke plate. Is it supposed to be delayed more in one direction versus the other? Car always starts, just doesn't want to run without dying until it's warmed up. I guess I can try adjusting the fast idle screw more, but it's now screwed in about as far as it will go. Is there a tool to measure the RPM for the fast idle?

    Since my mechanic never gave back the instructions for this carb (he probably lost it or whatever), can I get another copy?

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom K View Post
    88LTDCV351, welcome to the forum. Conversion kit number 1-684 is subject to C.A.R.B. vehicle code section 27156 exemption under title 13 section 1900.
    If you are having problems passing emissions PM your E-mail address and I will send you the specific C.A.R.B. information regarding part number 1-684. (The file is too large to attach to this post.) Thanks, Tom
    Tom - if you still have the file on the 1-648, could you send it to vjsimone@hotmail.com, thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    Well, I did run a wire to the choke from the fuse box. The choke is getting +12V now when I turn the key. With the key in the on position, it opens fairly quickly no matter which way I turn the choke plate. Is it supposed to be delayed more in one direction versus the other? Car always starts, just doesn't want to run without dying until it's warmed up. I guess I can try adjusting the fast idle screw more, but it's now screwed in about as far as it will go. Is there a tool to measure the RPM for the fast idle? Since my mechanic never gave back the instructions for this carb (he probably lost it or whatever), can I get another copy?
    Did you ever get your copy of your instructions?

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