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Thread: Loss of Fuel & Spark

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    There's the problem. When cranking the engine and while running, that ECU trigger wire should remain powered.
    Either there's an ECU wire continuity problem or the crank trigger sensor is intermittently dropping the RPM signal.
    Is there a way to test the crank trigger, besides measuring resistance?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by offthefront View Post
    Is there a way to test the crank trigger, besides measuring resistance?
    Ohms test the sensor, check wiring continuity and ensure the sensor air gap is set within specification.
    Also, ensure the magnets are properly installed in the wheel and the sensor wiring +/- polarity is correct:
    http://www.msdignition.com/WorkArea/...id=15032386388 (See page 2 - "Magnet Installation".)
    http://www.msdignition.com/WorkArea/...id=15032386551 (See page 1 & 2 - "Air Gap" & "Wiring".)

    Holley's 554-118 Hall-Effect sensor is a direct replacement for MSD's crank sensor (Flying Magnet crank trigger kit).
    It's Hall-Effect, which is preferred over a magnetic (VR) sensor. So if you need a sensor, might as well upgrade now.
    I realize the MSD sensor is non-magnetic, but Holley created their sensor because some had trouble with the MSD sensor.

    Quote Originally Posted by MSD Tech Bulletin
    If you’re not sure about the polarity of the pickup you are using, there is a simple test you can perform by checking the engine’s timing. Check the timing with the pickup wires connected one way, then swap the wires and check the timing again. You will notice that the timing changes significantly and may appear very erratic. The correct connection depends on the ignition control that is being used.
    Read page 2: https://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_pickups.pdf (MSD Magnetic Pickup Testing)

    Analog: If using an analog controlled MSD 6A, 6T or 6AL series, SCI series, 7AL series, MSD 8 or 10 or Blaster Ignition, the correct connection is when the timing is retarded.

    Digital: If using an MSD Digital-6 or Digital-7 Plus, or the Programmable Digital-7 Ignition Controls, the correct connection is when the timing is more advanced.
    Quote Originally Posted by 8.6 Magnetic Crank Pickup - Holley EFI Wiring Manual
    If running a magnetic pickup, either a crank trigger or a distributor: To run just a magnetic pickup crank input and no camshaft input, PN 558-303 should be purchased. If a cam sync input will be used as well, it is recommended to use PN 558-306 which will contain wiring for both the crank and cam sensor inputs. It is critical that properly installed shielded and grounded cable is used when using a magnetic pickup, or it is likely that EMI will disturb the crankshaft signal. Both PN 558-303 and 558-306 come with the proper cabling. It must be installed properly as well. Make sure that the shield is properly grounded which requires it being grounded at the ECU with that ground maintained through the ignition adapter connection.
    Note: The user must supply the proper terminals/connectors for the crank and cam sensors they are using.
    Note: If using an MSD Flying Magnet 4x crank trigger kit, it's highly recommended to use Holley's 554-118 Hall-Effect replacement (direct-fit) crank sensor.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #13

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    Already checked ohms (76 Ω) but will recheck and check air gap, I think it was .063". I do know that on this engine the Holley ignition plug is at the rear of the intake manifold just below the distributor and the coil is about 6" away from the plug. My other engine the ignition plug actually drops down the back of the motor along the bellhousing...maybe 12" from distributor and coil. I think I will move the plug on the bad engine and see what happens.

    I had already ordered a new sensor but will definitely look at the Holley unit. I just need the PU? The PU can use the MSD brackets and wheel? One question: Fig. 14 shows grounding the coil? MSD says not to ground the coil? As always, thanks. Mike

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by offthefront View Post
    I had already ordered a new sensor but will definitely look at the Holley unit.
    I just need the PU? The PU can use the MSD brackets and wheel?
    Yes, it was designed to fit the MSD Flying Magnet crank trigger kit.
    Since it's a (3-wire) Hall-Effect sensor, there'll be a slight change at the EFI ignition harness connector.
    http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...10555rev11.pdf (See figure 11, page 19.)
    Also, the Crank Sensor Type in the EFI software, will need to be changed to "Digital Falling".

    One question: Fig. 14 shows grounding the coil? MSD says not to ground the coil?
    Figure 14 of what manual?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #15

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    Figure 14 of what manual?
    Fig 9...my bad:
    http://www.holley.com/data/TechServi...10555rev11.pdf
    Is there a cable for the HE PU connector to the Holley Ignition Connector?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by offthefront View Post
    Is there a cable for the HE PU connector to the Holley Ignition Connector?
    Not necessarily, but you can use the Holley 558-303 cable.
    How many conductors does the cable you're currently using have?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Not necessarily, but you can use the Holley 558-303 cable.
    How many conductors does the cable you're currently using have?
    MSD 8862...2 conductors plus the shield. I guess I could add a ground on the outside of the cable.

  8. #18

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    Update: Relocated the ignition connector away from the coil/distributor and updated to V2 software. Fuel pump signal is back to normal and excellent fire. Both motors while not really tuned yet, do run more stable than before and seem to really be going thru a legitimate Learn process. V2 is very nice. Thanks, Mike.

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    Last edited by offthefront; 03-01-2013 at 08:33 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by offthefront View Post
    I do know that on this engine the Holley ignition plug is at the rear of the intake manifold just below the distributor and the coil is about 6" away from the plug. My other motor the ignition plug actually drops down the back of the engine along the bellhousing...maybe 12" from distributor and coil. I think I will move the plug on the bad engine and see what happens.
    Quote Originally Posted by offthefront View Post
    Update: Relocated the ignition connector away from the coil/distributor and updated to V2 software. Fuel pump signal is back to normal and excellent fire.
    Seems like the EFI ignition harness was too close to the distributor/coil (high voltage cap & rotor/coil). I'm glad you found the problem.

    (In post #2, I linked a Holley EFI Troubleshooting Checklist that has helped many users find & fix problems with their EFI installations.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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