Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Digital Dash Virtual Switch previous state?

  1. #1

    Default Digital Dash Virtual Switch previous state?

    Hello everybody. I have a Dominator with the 7" Digital Dash and I have setup my boost controller to be turned on with a virtual switch on my dash. It works great except for that fact that if the switch is on and I have to shut the car off, when I fire it back up it defaults back to off and I have to turn it on again. This is fine typically, except I know it's going to burn me at the track when the car in front of me breaks and I have to shut the car down for the crew to clean the track up. When I start the car back up I'll have to remember to turn the boost controller back on and I'm worried I'll forget and this will burn me. Any fix to make the virtual switch stay in the previous state it was in when the car was shut off or have it default to on instead of off? Thanks in advance. Tyler

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    31,124

    Default

    No, the Virtual Switches will be off at key-on.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    I was afraid you were going to say that. Rats!

  4. #4

    Default

    Just make it part of your pre-trip checklist. I use virtual switches on most builds. BURNOUT, BOOST CONTROLLER, COOL DOWN, ADDED BOOST.
    You just need to get used to your pre-trip. I make sticky notes until customers get used to the car.
    One nitrous car I had to add LED lights on the dash so the customer would remember to turn the nitrous on.

  5. #5

    Default

    Yes, that's very good advice and that's what I'm planning on doing. I'm going to Street Car Takeover in Charlotte this weekend, so we'll see how it goes. Thanks!

  6. #6

    Default

    I just had a thought and had to find this thread. Why not use your virtual switch to disable the Boost controller instead of enabling it?

    That way you pretty much accomplish the same thing your trying to do here?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us