Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: New Engine & Newbie

  1. #1

    Default New Engine & Newbie

    My name is Nick. This past Winter I decided to LSx swap my '77 Firebird. I built it up and dropped it in the car this Spring. I've gotten to the point now that I'm trying to start the engine and get it drivable. I think I'm close, however, I'm getting weird things happening to me that I don't quite understand. As for my background with cars, I hooked up a Sniper to a Chevy 350 and it fired right up the very first time. I went into the Terminator build thinking it should be just as simple, but so far I've been proven wrong. If you're going to post suggestions for me please dumb it down to a total newbie level. I do not know a lot of jargon and I'm just trying to learn as best as I can. Onto my problems.

    At first I had a bad WBO2 sensor, I replaced that and was finally able to get it fired up. Once it was running I adjusted the throttle body to where it hits my target idle which is set for 850 currently. I get to my idle and turn the car off, perform a TPS Autoset at that time and try to crank it back up, it never fires up immediately. With a little adjustments and trying things I've (at least I think) mostly solved that issue. The big one I'm encountering now is the inconsistency with the engine itself. I let it run for a little, turn it off and I get a bad reading on my brand new WBO2 sensor. Turn it off the moment I see that & reset, the bad reading goes away and the car struggles to fire up until I open the throttle body with the pedal a little. I'm under the assumption that this is a EFI setup and should not need to depress the throttle at all ever to get it to start, but yet here I am. Once it's running it get back to its idle speed kind of slow for what I think it should do I don't know though, it might be normal for all I know. I let it run until it's in the Learning and Closed Loop portion, then I try to step on the gas easy like I would be while normal operational driving, I get this loud whistle (pretty sure it's my IAC) and once I let off the gas the IAC reading stays anywhere between 13-30% and I'm now idling at 2000 RPM. It randomly fixes itself or I have to jab the pedal a few times to get it to stop.

    I realize this may not be the most well written post, so for that I apologize, but like I said I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this. I have scrolled though tons of forum pages here and I've found plenty of things that have helped me out, but I'm at a loss with this part. I've attached two datalogs that I took on this post. I hope I posted them correctly. If I can give any other helpful info to anyone to possibly help me I'll gladly do so. Thank you everyone for any help that I get from this. In datalog #1 is where my engine died then I had to reopen the throttle body. In datalog #2 is where that IAC reading and my RPM was crazy.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    31,124

    Default

    Do you have a regular Terminator EFI or a Terminator X EFI system?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    I have the Terminator X Max EFI system. Part number 550-918. My engine specs are as follows:
    LQ4 6.0L bored .030" over.
    Stock LS3 Intake
    821 Heads
    58x Tooth Crank
    Custom Pat G cam:
    Duration Intake 235° Exhaust 246°
    Lobe Lift Intake .370" Exhaust .362"
    Valve Lift @ 1.7 Intake .629" Exhaust .615"
    Lobe Separation 111°
    Intake Center Line 108°

  4. #4

    Default

    Do you have any exhausts leaks at all?

  5. #5

    Default

    I checked everything ahead and behind of the WBO2 sensor, I'd say about 12-15 inches behind the bung quite extensively last night to make sure, and I don't see or hear any while the cars running. I have very small leaks after that where I have them connected, but it's better than it was with my Sniper EFI system that I had installed with the same exhaust, just different headers. So unless the Hooker headers I have, have a crack in the welds that I don't see on the engine side of my WBO2 bung I'd say no leaks that will effect the sensor.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    31,124

    Default

    First ensure all this is correct: http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read Steps #1-#6!)
    Furthermore, if you want someone to help you with a GCF (Global Configuration File) consultation, or by means of a remote tuning session (after installation), I'd contact Andrew B. @projectgattago, Chris Myer at EFISystemPro.com or Richard Nedbal (FastManEFI) at EFIExpert.com.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, forged steel crank & rods, forged pistons, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 12:1 comp ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, TFS R-Series FTI comp ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM C6 converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us