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Thread: Headers replaced, but can't drive to muffler shop.

  1. #1

    Default Headers replaced, but can't drive to muffler shop.

    My question to my problem is what caused it not to crank up & run properly? I came to the conclusion the WBO2 sensor cannot pickup the correct reading for proper idle due to the headers not being welded to exhaust piping.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ont. Canada
    Posts
    1,929

    Default

    If you suspect an exhaust leak, put in a known to be good tune and turn the Closed Loop off until you get the exhaust welded up.

  3. #3

    Default

    OK, I'll give it a try.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    29,675

    Default

    Yep, uncheck "Enable Closed Loop" in the Closed Loop Parameters screen in the System ICF (Sniper EFI PC software), or on the 3.5" TSLCD "Closed Loop Enable/Disable": http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf (Holley Sniper EFI Instruction Manual, Page 48)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

    Default Now it won't start.

    I recently cranked up my Mustang with the new headers. Needed to be able to drive it to muffler shop. I got it to crank up, but it wouldn’t adjust properly due to the WBO2 sensor trying to make adjustments to my Sniper. OK, I received advice to disable the Closed Loop/Learn. Was able to do so, but now it tries to crank and just won't catch to fire up. The timing is spot on. Not sure what's the problem now.

  6. #6

    Default

    Now that I've disabled Closed Loop on it won't crank up. It tries to crank, but won't. I've adjusted timing and the IAC screw. I've checked timing, making sure #1 cylinder is on correct stroke. This is very frustrating.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ont. Canada
    Posts
    1,929

    Default

    Contact someone like Andrew from this site and he can remote tune your engine.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    29,675

    Default

    Yes, if you want someone to help you by means of a remote tuning session (after installation), I'd contact Andrew B. @projectgattago, Chris Myer at EFISystemPro.com or Richard Nedbal (FastManEFI) at EFIExpert.com. Maybe your Learn Table is corrupted from the exhaust leak, so disabling Closed Loop was too late. However, it should still start, then die.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  9. #9

    Default

    With your header swap do you currently have an WBO2 bung? If not, where is the WBO2 sensor? Is it plugged in? Are the WBO2 sensor wires clear of your new headers? Do you have a known good tune before you started it without the exhaust? If so, you may want to abandon the tune you have been adjusting, load your known good tune, and turn off Closed Loop. Are the headers the only thing you changed? If you had the plug wires off to do the change, confirm your firing order again. Why did you feel you had to mess with the timing if only the headers were changed? Depending on how long you tried to run it without the exhaust, you may have seriously fouled the spark plugs. Pull a few plugs and if they are black and sooted either clean them or replace. If it was mine, I'd save the Config File that you have so you can load it again after the exhaust system is installed and then I would rerun the Wizard with the basics. Pull the fuel pump relay. After the key off, key on to load the tune. Use the handheld to turn off Closed Loop. Check your timing again with the relay still unplugged. If the timing is synced, reinstall the fuel pump relay and try to start it. Watch the handheld carefully to make sure you have an RPM signal while cranking. If it still doesn't start, have someone key on the ignition while you look down the Sniper. Make sure you see the prime shot from the four injectors. Have them crank it and if you have an RPM signal you should see the injectors firing. Report back if it still doesn't start. I know this can be frustrating, so forgive me in advance for asking if you know that the distributor isn't 180° out. If it never came out with your swap then it should be OK. If you pulled it for some reason, there's always that slight chance that it went back in 180° out.

  10. #10

    Default

    I've found that when the WBO2 fails or gives wildly erroneous readings, that the Sniper Learn algorithm can really trash a Config File in very short order. Every time I've lost a WBO2, I've had to abandon that Config File and go back to an earlier version. I'd save your current Config File under a different name, rerun the setup Wizard and turn off Closed Loop before you even try to start it. This should give you something to get to the muffler shop with.

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