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Thread: No Start With Custom Ignition

  1. #1

    Default No Start With Custom Ignition

    I just tried firing my engine for the first time with the Holley HP EFI I installed, and I got an RPM sync/error while cranking. I've tried to do a little bit of diagnostics, but I just don't know enough about the Holley EFI software yet. My hardware setup is the stock cam & crank sensors from a GM 3.8L V6 L36, and the EFI software setup is Crank: 1 Pulse/Fire, Digital Rising, 100 usec Inductive Delay, Ignition Reference Angle 75°, Cam: Single Pulse, Digital Falling. I did a datalog with Diag #1, #6 & #7 enabled, and found that Diag #1 would rise & fall while cranking, while #6 & #7 were at zero. I got my base tune from a user here who has a similar setup. They went through Holley support when setting up their car, and determined these Custom Ignition Parameters was the way to go for the setup. I've attached my Global File and a datalog with the appropriate Diagnostics datalogged.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009


    The datalog indicates your crank sensor never transmits an RPM signal (repeated syncing, error). I suggest recording a System Log of the crank & cam signals. (Scroll down to "Typical No-Start Checks".)

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    If your crank or cam sync unit isn't transmitting a signal, troubleshoot the sensors, wiring, reference voltage & ground, reluctor,
    alignment, air gap (LINK), radial run-out problems (LINK), etc. If a regular datalog indicates an "RPM Error" when scrolling through
    the problem area, then it's time for a System Log to confirm which sensor flatlines. FYI: Crank & Cam A/D means Analog To Digital.
    It's not the +5V reference supply voltage. Troubleshooting 3-wire Hall-Effect sensors: (Fluke Multimeter Testing - "Hall-Effect Sensors", Page 17) (Understanding/Troubleshooting Hall-Effect Sensors - "Troubleshooting", Page 2)

    Record a System Log to verify crank & cam sensor signals. Check mark the "RPM", "Crank" & "Cam" channels. Look for a uniform,
    uninterrupted crank or cam sensor signal pattern. The crank or cam sensor signal should never flatline (no pulse) or indicate an
    RPM "Error" anywhere. Also, fully charge the battery and ensure the engine is cranking fast enough, at least 100+ RPM. Another
    common issue, is trying to analyze a compressed view of a long System Log. Zoom In for detail - click & hold at one point of the
    datalog, and drag & release to another point nearby. It's best to record short System Logs/Datalogs that capture the problem. (Datalog & System Log Information)
    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Ignition Timing Cylinder Sequence Verification
    Ensure the Firing Order is entered correctly in Ignition Parameters (System ICF).
    Before the initial start, disconnect the fuel injector harness and verify
    at least, the first four cylinders in the firing order using a timing light.
    If your cylinders are firing in 90° intervals BUT in the wrong sequence,
    the coil harness is connected wrong (at the ECU or at the coil packs).
    Hopefully you have a fully degreed balancer or at least markings every 90°:
    1st cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 0° (or 15° - add whatever your cranking timing is)
    2nd cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 270° (or 285° - cranking timing added)
    3rd cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 180° (or 195° - cranking timing added)
    4th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 90° (or 105° - cranking timing added)
    5th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 0° (or 15° - cranking timing added)
    6th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 270° (or 285° - cranking timing added)
    7th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 180° (or 195° - cranking timing added)
    8th cylinder, in firing order, should fire at 90° (or 105° - cranking timing added)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Trick Flow T/W 11R 205 CNC comp ported heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers transmission crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3


    Okay, here's a System Log I did, and it looks like the camshaft sensor wasn't reading at all. I went and double checked the wiring, and it looks like I used an outdated wiring diagram. So I fixed the wiring for the cam sensor, tried again, still no cam signal. I swapped out the sensor for a known good sensor thinking I fried the old one with the reversed power & ground. But no. I did a third System Log, and it looks the same as the first, where I have crank signal, but no cam. I know the cam sensor magnet is installed in the cam gear also. One other thing to note that might help is my fuel & oil psi sensors aren't reading. I don't know if that means the ECU isn't putting out 5V, cause I know I wired those sensors correctly. System
    Last edited by Wolven Scout; 11-27-2021 at 07:57 PM.

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