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Thread: Bad cap & rotor after 3000 miles?

  1. #1

    Default Bad cap & rotor after 3000 miles?

    Hi all. This is my cap & rotor after seven months and 3000 miles. Been good since install, started running rough three days ago, surging at idle, AFR all over the place. Could this cause issues with the Sniper? It's all I can see that's suspect. Super Sniper, HyperSpark, Digital 6AL, Blaster coil, MSD wires. Any input is appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Ensure the distributor's rotor-phasing is correct:
    http://documents.msdperformance.com/8644_tb.pdf (MSD Rotor-Phasing Document)
    MSD has a good video on why it's important:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM (MSD Tech Rotor-Phasing Video)

    For naturally aspirated engines, the rotor is usually phased halfway between minimum & maximum amount of timing advance used.
    For forced induction engines, the rotor is usually phased at maximum boost retard, because that's when cylinder pressure is the greatest.

    Testing the MSD CD ignition box.
    Points Output - white wire & Magnetic Pickup - violet/green triggering:
    https://www.msdperformance.com/suppo...ng_techniques/ (Troubleshooting Info)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, R134a A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for responding Danny.
    The distributor came with the plastic rotor phase tool so it should be installed properly. Also the MSD box has good spark and works great. The whole system ran good up until three days ago. It still runs, just not real well.

  4. #4
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    The engine can run fine even if the rotor phasing isn't optimal.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, R134a A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    I'm not sure I understand your answer. The rotor phasing is done per Holley instructions using the supplied plastic alignment cap. Is that not good enough? Do I need to do it differently? Thanks.

  6. #6
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    I'm simply suggesting you verify it, because of how your cap & rotor looks. Is your Ignition Reference Angle set at 57.5° in the EFI software? (HyperSpark Distributor)

  7. #7

    Default

    I understand, thank you. I did it at time of installation, but I'll definitely check it when I replace the cap & rotor, thanks again for your help.

  8. #8

    Default

    I had a brand new MSD Pro Billet that looked like it had been underwater for 50 years after 1 year of use. It was the newer design with vented cap, and never got wet. I suppose it could have been a phasing issue, but I’d expect a top shelf part like a Pro Billet to be properly phased from the manufacturer.

    You really shouldn’t need to check the phasing with the HyperSpark distributor. The plastic phasing cap and the default value SHOULD be good enough. That said, I checked mine and found some room for improvement on my application. It required sacrificing an extra cap so you can watch the spark arc and adjust the Reference Angle as needed. I think I ended up with a setting of 46° as the best compromise for my timing curve.

    As some other more experienced Sniper users have mentioned, there seems to be something going on with these HyperSpark distributors. Lots of EMI issues caused by who knows what.

  9. #9

    Default

    @BMWM.D.: I have had decent luck with my HyperSpark. From all my reading EMI is typically due to installs. I put ignition box on right front fender well and ignition coil on left front fender well, this helps keep wiring separate from the plug wires. I drive car daily, have driven five hours straight California to Arizona and no failure yet. I guess I better get a cap & rotor now. Easily have over 10,000 miles on distributor.

  10. #10

    Default

    Scratch that. My cap had all kinds of build up. Now I'm fighting wierd misfire under load. I've cleaned the contacts, but that made no difference. Something is up with the distributor or the injectors because I'm getting stuck pig rich at WOT 9.6 when Target AFRs are set at 12.5. Horrendous bog. Typically only happens after going full send through 1st & 2nd, in 3rd it just lays over.

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