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Thread: Tach Not Working

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    29,048

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    About 20 years ago, we used to have a local instrument/gauge/radio repair shop. It seems those places are now hard to find; it's becoming a lost art.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, R134a A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  2. #12

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    I agree, it's hard to find someone who does that kind of work these days. On the plus side though you can now buy very inexpensive USB scopes that hook up to a laptop. So you can turn your laptop into a scope. Very handy thing to have for an EFI guy.

  3. #13

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    The scope is preferred, but the tach signal can still be tested with a multimeter:
    https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/hrf...d-tach-signal/

  4. #14

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    Thanks for the ideas, I'll look into it!

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by tcm308 View Post
    The scope is preferred, but the tach signal can still be tested with a multimeter:
    https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/hrf...d-tach-signal/
    I did this test and according to these directions, I was getting a signal from the brown wire. I guess I just need a new tach.

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