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Thread: 5.3L turbo injectors not pulsing.

  1. #1

    Default 5.3L turbo injectors not pulsing.

    Here’s a little on the setup:
    5.3L Gen 4
    GT45
    TBSS/NBSS intake
    Sep 1500s
    Air to water IC
    102mm TB

    Car was running a few months ago, but one injector was stuck (cheap eBay 80 lbs/hr). So it sat for a few months while I bought new injectors and finished up a few more things. Fast forward, I get everything done enough to fire it up again. Did a TPS Autoset. Crank it over and it fires, but immediately dies. Crank over again and give it some throttle, and it stays running only if I give it throttle. Checked over all the wiring because I thought I had something crossed. But everything was in its right location. So a few days later I look at the file on my laptop to make sure nothing was configured wrong. Go to crank it over now I get nothing. No sputter, not backfiring, nothing. But if I spray starting fluid in it, it fires right up. So I dig deeper into it, check crank & cam pin-outs they’re right, have 60 psi fuel pressure at rails during priming and during cranking, +12V at injectors during priming, checked all grounds to make sure they're clean and tight, hooked red/white wire directly to battery and toggle switch, RPM is between 145-155 during cranking, battery Volts drop to about 10.5-10.8 while cranking, main power harness hooked directly to battery as they should. A few things that are strange I found out. I have RPM signal on handheld and laptop, but LED light #6 on Terminator ECU goes red/blue while cranking. Is a crank sensor my issue? Also, if I probe the ground side of the injector connector with a test light (hook test light to +12V, stick probe in ground side of connector) the light comes on, goes out while cranking, come back on when you stop cranking. Sorry for writing a book. LOL! Just trying to get this thing sorted out.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Bostwick, GA
    Posts
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by _MooreBoost_ View Post
    Also, if I probe the ground side of the injector connector with a test light (hook test light to +12V, stick probe in ground side of connector) the light comes on, goes out while cranking, come back on when you stop cranking.
    Backwards. Should work the same way as a noid lite.
    Injector Inspector
    USAF 1960-1964
    Drag racing since 1955

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    28,224

    Default

    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....9623#post69623 (System Relay & Injector Wiring Troubleshooting)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  4. #4

    Default

    OK, I knew I was doing something wrong. I'm going to buy a noid light after work will post updates.

    Any ideas on the #6 diagnostic LED light changing between red/blue while cranking?

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