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Thread: Fuel Routing Question 2.0

  1. #1

    Default Fuel Routing Question 2.0

    I'm seeing many different fuel line routing options for the Super Sniper and seemingly conflicting information online. I was originally going carb, so I wound up with a low-pressure bypass regulator. Obviously the pressure is too low on that for EFI, so I'm looking into a higher pressure regulator with the same port arrangement (1x inlet, 1x bypass 2x outlet).

    I see one specific diagram from Holley where the routing goes:
    Pump, Filter to Regulator Inlet
    Regulator Bypass to Fuel Tank
    Regulator Output to (2x) inlets on Sniper body. No return from Sniper body due to bypass regulator. I'd love to do this arrangement on mine as I already have all of the fittings and routing plotted out nicely. In my manual, it only shows inlet/outlet configurations on the Sniper, nothing where it's inlet only for a bypass style regulator. Seems there are all sorts of options floating around. Any thoughts?

    This is for a non-Stealth Super Sniper, if that matters.
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    Last edited by cv428; 01-13-2021 at 01:58 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Wheeling, WV


    With the regulator you mentioned, you just plug the outlet ports of the Sniper.

  3. #3


    Here's scenario 1: (Similar to a typical pre-regulator bypass carb arrangement, diagram in 1st post.)
    I'll be plugging the two rear ports and using the two forward ports as -6AN inlets. The only disadvantage I see with doing it this way is that there is a 2' section of -6AN that is sort of deadheaded into the Sniper unit, so it'll soak a little heat.

    Scenario 2: (As the instructions recommend)

    -10AN supply to -10AN bulkhead
    -10AN bulkhead to -6AN inlet (Front port A) on Sniper
    -6AN outlet (front port B) on Sniper to -8AN EFI regulator
    EFI regulator to return bulkhead
    -Better circulation and less risk of heating up fuel.

    I can make either work. Just seems odd jumping from 10 to 6, 6 to 8.

    Now to do a complete 180 change of mind. After posting this thread and making a few phone calls, I'm starting to want to change my mind and gravitate more towards Scenario 2.
    Last edited by cv428; 01-14-2021 at 09:54 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Wheeling, WV


    It doesn't matter which port you use for what, assuming the version you have does not have a factory installed regulator and/or you have already removed it. All for ports are linked via the crossover hose.

    How much HP are you planning for? Most vehicles running on the street, with less than 800 HP or so can safely use -6AN sized fuel system.

  5. #5


    Information you find online is often conflicting because some of it is wrong or outdated. A Sniper doesn't need a complicated fuel delivery system, it just needs adequate fuel delivered at roughly 60 psi. The location of the regulator doesn't really matter. It can be in the engine compartment with a return line or you can use the musclecar fuel pump modules with the regulator inside the tank. Both work just fine. You don't need big lines with EFI plumbing since it's at 60 psi. #6 will work just fine for a Sniper or #8 if it makes you feel good. You don't need #10 fuel lines for a Sniper. If the car is already plumbed with #10 then leave it, but don't use #10 in a new build. It's way overkill so it costs you money & weight.

  6. #6


    CV, I ran the fuel system on both of mine like you originally mentioned. Basically mine are regulated with an Aeromotive 13301 return style regulator close to the Sniper Stealth, then dead headed to the unit, my return comes from the regulator itself. This has proven to be just fine on both cars. In fact, I specifically wanted it this way so I could keep a somewhat stock appearing fuel system up to the Sniper unit. I didn't want multiple fuel feed and return lines on top of the engine.

    I use -8 for for the feed and return with just a short section of -6 to the unit. I use a 400 LPH pump in the tank on both cars and works fine on both cars. One making 724 HP and the other just over 600 HP; one runs 10s at the track and the other is running low 11s. They have been running perfect on the street so far for the past year.

    I already had the fuel system in both cars plumbed this way running carbs for decades, so the EFI switch was easy, I just changed the spring in the regulator for EFI PSI and done.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 01-14-2021 at 01:14 PM.

  7. #7


    @a b c: Mine does have the regulator, but I was going to plug that port. We're looking at ~850 HP at the flywheel. Honestly, the only place the car will ever put that down is on the dyno. I'm notoriously gentle to my vehicles.

    @AndyF: I have 10 for supply and 8 for return, but these go to bulkheads in the engine bay. I can draw down to 8 for supply and return in the engine bay and it won't be an issue. Yeah, these are a bit oversized. If I had a modern block, I'd be pushing to use the entire 1200 HP capacity of this thing. The block is the weakest part of the entire drivetrain at the moment, and that's only because a modern FE block runs $5000 and the leadtimes are rough.

    @Firebirdjones: That's reassuring. I appreciate the input! I have some thinking to do.
    Last edited by cv428; 01-14-2021 at 03:26 PM.

  8. #8


    Since the car is already plumbed with 10 supply and 8 return, then go ahead and use those ports. Since the car is plumbed that way, I'd put the regulator on the return side of the engine bay loop. So the #10 line runs to an input on the Sniper (necked down at some point obviously) and then come out of the Sniper with the #8 line, which goes to the regulator and then out of the regulator to the return line. This is a typical way to plumb a carb, but it works okay for a Sniper also.

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