Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: Sniper CTS Reads 16F too hot.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Posts
    16

    Default Sniper CTS Reads 16F too hot.

    I just installed a new 289 in my 65 Ranchero and decided to get the Sniper 4150 EFI instead of a carburetor. Im using a Weiand Street Warrior intake manifold.

    We just had first engine start a few days ago. I've had hot start troubles since the first start.

    Today I noticed that the CTS was reading 81F. After sitting for 18 hours in my garage. The manifold temp sensor read 65F. Which is likely spot on.

    Could that be causing my hot start problems? Do I have to get a replacement from Holley or can a local parts store sensor be made to work with the Holley wire adapter?

    My stock temp sensor is in the adjacent bung - can I somehow just swap the wiring? Its unclear to me how to detach the Holley wiring from the body of the CTS.

    For what its worth the engine runs great once it gets going, but Im afraid to drive anywhere because I may not get it started again to get home.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    27,458

    Default

    Replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor: Standard Motor Products TX3 (LINK & LINK).
    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Sniper EFI Replacement Sensors - Auto Parts Store
    CTS Sensor: Standard Motor Products TX3
    TPS Sensor: Standard Motor Products TH191
    IAC Motor: Standard Motor Products AC416
    WBO2 Sensor: Bosch 17025, 0258017025 (LINK/LINK/LINK/LINK)
    (The Sniper EFI 2 bar MAP sensor is internal with the ECU.
    The Sniper EFI IAT sensor is a circuit board sensor that measures one throttle bore.)
    Innovate Motorsports HBX-1 Heat-Sink Bung Extender is great for protecting the WBO2.
    https://www.holley.com/brands/holley...ce_components/ (Sniper EFI Service Components)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    It's fairly common for the CTS to read wrong or slightly wrong. In your case it is slightly wrong at room temperature, but it might not be wrong when hot. You can check that next time you warm the engine up.

    Your hot start issue is not due to the CTS reading wrong. My guess is that you have a tuning problem. Perhaps your Startup Enrichment is incorrect or the IAC Parked Position is incorrect. Do you know how to take a datalog and review it? If you don't you should watch some videos and learn how, since the datalogger is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Once you know how to datalog events, you'll be able to figure out all sorts of stuff.

    Get your engine up to temperature and then turn it off. Turn the key on, start the datalog and then try to start the engine. Once you get the engine running keep the datalog running for a couple of minutes at hot idle and then shut it off. Post the datalog on here along with a copy of your tune file and we'll take a look at it. The answer is usually obvious.

  4. #4

    Default

    One of the easiest ways to test if it needs more IAC at startup is to open the throttle or press on the gas pedal while cranking. If it starts with you holding pedal at say 20% TPS, then you have two choices; decrease Cranking Fuel or open the IAC Parked Position more at startup. Good luck.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Posts
    16

    Default

    These comments are helpful, thank you. I bought a new temperature sensor at a local auto parts store, need to drain the radiator, so I don’t make a mess installing it.

    I started the datalogging feature and I'll investigate that further. I'm not sure I have a card reader. I'll check.

    I have adjusted the IAC multiple times to keep it in the 2% - 10% range.

    Once running the engine runs quite well. Cold starts are easy and getting easier. Hot starts remain difficult or impossible.

    I’ve tried slowly/gently adding throttle while cranking, rapidly adding throttle while cranking and the engine won’t fire at all. 95% or more of my attempts have been with zero throttle application, which is how I’ve always started fuel injected engines.

    It seems to work better if I turn the ignition off after each failed start attempt then cycle it back to on, wait for the 5 seconds for the fuel pump to prime & stop, then try to start the engine. At least then the engine will fire before it quits.

    Timing was set at 7 BTDC. Book spec is 6, but the factory manual indicates that timing can be advanced to as much as 11 BTDC. We were timing it quickly since we were breaking in a new engine. I can dial it back to 6 if that's critical.

    She runs great once started. I’m sure a resolution can/will be found.

    I do not suspect any fuel issues because cold starts are pretty good and it runs great once started, but I ordered the gauge anyway. I have new 3/8” Earl’s fuel line supply and I'm using the factory 5/16” hard line for the fuel return to the tank.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    27,458

    Default

    I'd try 12 idle timing. What's your Target Idle Speed RPM?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232-244 duration/.623" lift/114 LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Im currently using 800 RPM for idle speed. I can advance the timing.

  8. #8

    Default

    If it starts better after cycling the ignition then it might be too lean. When you cycle the ignition you get a squirt of fuel. Try cycling the ignition twice or even three times to see if it starts better. If it does then that tells you that it wants more fuel when hot (or less air).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Mea culpa! Problem solved - and it was MY FAULT.

    I disconnected the Sniper wiring harness and had a friend put a voltmeter on the pink wire (which opens the relay) and although it had +12V volts with key ON as soon as I turned it to START it went dead.

    My previous engine (170 inline six) had a Pertronix electronic ignition to replace the points & Condenser, so I already had a relay for that. The Pertronix relay is designed to work with the vintage Ford pink ‘resistor wire’ that only puts 9 volts to the points, and much like the Sniper relay instead provides a full 12 volts output once triggered by a direct battery feed.

    I didn’t know if the Sniper relay would be triggered by only 9 volts, so I used the 12 volt power feed from the Pertronix to trigger the Sniper relay and she starts up immediately, or at least has every time since I made the change a couple of hours ago. Starting easily and running nicely now. Very happy.

    Is it normal with the 4150 to hear a whistling sound mid-throttle (say you’re flooring it in 5th gear to pass someone)? Just curious on that.

  10. #10

    Default

    Okay, that is interesting. I had not considered an electrical reason for the no start when hot, but if the voltage is marginal then that could explain it.

    A whistling noise is possible depending on the type of intake manifold you have. Holley sells a spacer for the Sniper that stops the whistle noise. Or if you have room you can play around with different spacers.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR Sprint Cup team and nearly every NHRA ProStock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dressup products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us