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Thread: Dual Sync or Crank Trigger

  1. #1

    Default Dual Sync or Crank Trigger

    Currently running a MSD Pro-Billet TFI distributor and 6AL box. I'd like to ditch the TFI and go Dual Sync or crank trigger. Car will be ran in 8.50 index and revved to about 7000 RPM max. Out of the two choices, what do you guys recommend going with? I may be switching to a Dominator if I can sell my HP. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I love Holley's 556-115 36-1 crank trigger kit. Scroll down to section #4: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...464#post100464 (Related Ford 5.0L Fox Mustang - Holley HP/Dominator EFI Installation Post)
    (Please don't type your posts like you're texting. It takes me a long time to edit it. At least use Spell Check before posting.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

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    @Windsor393: I'm not sure that you'd see any difference between the two at 7000 RPM. In theory, the crank trigger should provide a better crank signal, but it might not matter at 7000 RPM. I've tuned race car engines that spin 7000 that run Dual Sync distributors and they seem to run just fine.

    If you use a crank trigger you'll still need a distributor unless you switch to CNP so that means you are buying additional parts. If it was me I'd start with a Dual Sync distributor and see how it works. You can keep an eye on the signals to verify that the ECU is getting a good trigger. If you have an issue then you can add a crank trigger for the crank signal and just use the Dual Sync distributor for the cam signal. You would need to change the wiring at that point, but it just requires swapping a few wires.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyF View Post
    I've tuned race car engines that spin 7000 that run Dual Sync distributors and they seem to run just fine.
    The crank/cam signals are not the point. I'll explain more later.

    You would need to change the wiring at that point, but it just requires swapping a few wires.
    If he decides on Coil-Near-Plug ignition, he can buy the Holley 558-431 Crank/Cam Sensor Harness and an MSD 85221 302/5.0L (MSD 85061 351W) Cam Sync Unit now, and it's all plug & play with the Holley 556-115 36-1 Crank Trigger Kit.

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