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Thread: Electrical Debug/Testing Before Use

  1. #1

    Default Electrical Debug/Testing Before Use

    We're nearly complete with a full restoration (light restomod) on our '69 Mustang Mach 1. We have a brand new bulletproof 474ci FE getting dropped in next week, but I want to test all electrical first since we did a totally custom wiring job to keep everything as clean and hidden as possible. I didn't see anything in the Sniper EFI documentation that suggested there would be any issue with testing the unit for function without being on a working engine.

    Anything I should be aware of? I just want to test out all of the wiring to make sure there isn't an issue before we get an engine in there and block most accessibility to the pass-through.

  2. #2

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    What fuel pump/system are you running? What are you doing for ignition - Dual Sync Distributor or other? I think about the only thing you could test if you plugged everything in is that the Sniper boots and activates the fuel pump. As long as you have properly wired the main battery and ground leads direct to the battery and if you intend to keep all wiring clear of the ignition it should fire. If you've wired your fuel pump independently from the Sniper, I'd advise that you still use the Sniper to control your fuel pump with the ground trigger in the harness. You may want to test the coolant temperature sensor before your install just to save draining the system if it's bad. This can be done during your testing. Attach the sensor and compare the CTS value to the manifold air temperature. If they are close, you'll be fine. If the CTS reads higher than the manifold temp, replace it before you install.

    I run an FE with the Dual Sync Distributor and have had only minor issues. I did encounter some RFI/EMI interference when I upgraded the ignition box and coil, but I've corrected that. You will not know if you have to do any EMI/RFI intervention until the unit is running, but good wiring practices and good wires and plugs will minimize any risk.

    What transmission are you going to run? Sounds like you'll have a fun ride with that engine!

  3. #3

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    We have the battery in the trunk, so I ran a dedicated 12AWG +12VDC and ground with a single in-line fuse straight from the battery. The fuel pump is an AEM 50-1005, should be good to 1200 HP (I was skeptical of AEM at first since I've always been an Aeromotive guy, but I was told that little 50-1005 was a champ on the street). We did have the fuel pump wired with its own relay prior to getting the Sniper EFI kit, but everyone recommended that we allow the EFI system to control the fuel pump for priming and such, so I ran the blue wire from the Sniper kit to the trigger on the relay we already installed in the trunk. It's overkill, but it's safe and totally isolates that circuit.

    Ignition is an MSD 6A which we mounted under the dash (hidden, but good airflow, also isolates it from the main Sniper EFI unit).

    We're running a built C6 transmission with a 10.5 billet converter. The goal is to have an F1C ProCharger on there early next year, but I want to get the engine broken in and everything debugged first. It was a near total restoration, so lots of little nuances will be found for sure.

    The main thing I'm going for is to flip the cutoff switch in the trunk and make sure nothing goes "poof." If I can see the EFI system working, screen powered on, etc, then I'm good. So far everything else went fine save for a few stubborn courtesy lights that wound up being filaments.
    Last edited by cv428; 10-23-2020 at 08:37 AM.

  4. #4

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    Sounds like you've been pretty thorough. What distributor will you be running initially through the break-in period?

  5. #5

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    We're trying for sure! The distributor is an MSD Pro-Billet. The FE was built as a roller, so no more flat tappets! The only thing that we could've built stronger would've been the block. BBM was backordered with a crazy leadtime for new iron blocks, so we opted to use the original block which was in excellent shape. It's just going to be a street/show car, so it'll never actually put down the power it makes anyways.

  6. #6

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    I always turn on the ignition key to see if the handheld will light up. If it lights up then I run the Wizard and cycle the ignition. Once you cycle the ignition the fuel pump should prime. Then you can check fuel pressure and make sure all injectors fire. Carefully review the sensor data at this point to confirm that MAT & CTS values are correct. Also confirm that all other values are correct. If everything checks out you're ready to start the engine.

    I think you'd be wise to switch to a HyperSpark distributor now rather than later. A Pro-Billet distributor is not a good choice for your application.

  7. #7

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    I actually already had the MSD 6A and Pro-Billet distributor before I bought the Sniper EFI Kit. What isn't good about the Pro-Billet?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    27,079

    Default

    https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?48240 (Holley Sniper EFI - Avoid Magnetic Ignition Type, Use Hall-Effect/HyperSpark Distributor)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?48240 (Holley Sniper EFI - Avoid Magnetic Ignition Type, Use Hall-Effect/HyperSpark Distributor)
    Interesting. Well, that invalidates the last three hours I put into wiring. Ha, ha. Uh oh.

    I do appreciate the info though! Little things like this can really bite when you're trying to figure out why something isn't running right or at all.

    Realistically speaking, if I already have everything wired for the MSD 6A & Pro-Billet, how bad is it going to screw up the wiring to swap to the HyperSpark setup? I love the idea of having it fully integrated and plug & play, just hoping I don't have to tear everything apart to do it.
    Last edited by cv428; 10-23-2020 at 12:37 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    27,079

    Default

    It can be programmed to work, if you want the hassle (& if you know how to adjust the Magnetic Type parameters).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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