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Thread: Secondary/Transfer Slot/won't idle down

  1. #11
    Ryan Guest


    A bodies are sweet. I've owned mostly b bodies. The 72 rr a 73 satellite sport 318 and a genuine 74 or 73 fury which ever was the first year for the 360 which it had. Man it was a tire fryer! But if i had to pick just one Im really partial to the 1971 scamp 340. I dont know why it just cool. I really like furys too. The sixties with the max wedge or commandos. Now Im knee deep in a fox stang. Probably one of a few with carburation. Lol! It funny you putting efi on those old dinosaurs! I take it the current is tbi and you making a manifold for a multi port injection? That will be neato when its done love to see pics.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009


    Please be sure to repair your carburetor's throttle linkage/cable return mechanism.
    This is a safety hazard that could cause personal injury or death to you or other motorists.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #13
    Ryan Guest


    I will. Appreciate the concern. But I don't want to mess the return spring until I figure out what is causing my idle problem. My throttle cable is a stock ford spring over cable type. From a four banger Mustang. It pushes the throttle arm back to idle position. But the car idles erratically. 900 rpm until it gets an electric draw from the fan. Then it idles at about 700 rpm. When this happens carb acts like its rich. When fan stops the idle goes up and is slightly enriched but not as bad. My plugs indicate Ive got good idle mixture. They are a brownish gray tint. No soot no burnt electrodes. However I had to enrich idle mixtures because I was getting a bog off acceleration and a popping through exhaust at a warm idle and upon full deceleration. Which i believed was caused from a lean condition. I don't know what do. If I lean the idle mixtures I doesn't idle rich and I can adjust idle were I want but it pops and bogs/stumbles off acceleration. If I enrich idles mixtures It doesn't pop through exhaust and no bog but it idles high. So frustrated! I will start another post with better details. You have been helping me a lot since I became a member but I'm jumping around to much and chasing my tail on this carb. I will title it 670 blues.
    Last edited by Ryan; 12-17-2012 at 10:17 PM.

  4. #14
    Ryan Guest


    Okay still having trouble getting idle down. After i got the vacuum put back on it idle down some but not were it should. Checked timing. If balancer is correct it running about 16° initial and 32° total at 2500 rpm. I've religiously looked for vacuum leaks to no avail. Carb intake vacuum block hoses and all seem fine. Test brake booster valve and replaced hose. So in a last ditch effort I adjusted the T Slot so that its square. I don't have a feeler gauge is it eye balled to square. Put my old bigger jets back in while I was there as the car surges up hill. They are now 70 pri and 74 second. Car idle way too high 1100-1200 rpm. Still pops at warm idle. Lost the surging up hill though. LOL! My t Slot is accessible from out side carb via an Allen wrench. So idled it down to 1000-900 rpm with T Slot. Still pops out exhaust at idle unless I enrich the idle mixture but then it smokes not really bad but still enough to worry about foul plugs. Forgot to mention when I had carb off the throttle arm doesn't even touch curb idle screw! Primary are definitely closed. barely can see light threw them. Curb idle screw is about a 1/8 way through hole. what now?!

  5. #15
    Ryan Guest


    Okay just about got it under control. Disconnected secondaries from the primaries(via the linkage on driver side). Ran secondary idle screw all the way out until it won't touch the linkage to the diafram to insure the secondary blades are most definitely closed. Then grabbed secondary linkage ( the quarter moon shape on driver side ) and moved it up and down till i could feel it stick. Then i screwed in the secondary idle screw until it barely rest into the diafram stop arm. Using a piece of paper between the two until i couldn't pull it out as the two surfaces ( the adjusting screw and arm stop) are hard to see while in car. Then i started the car. The pig won't stay idled! Well.... i finally got the the fast idle screw to touch the darn throttle arm! Lol! Got it to idle still have to hook up secondary linkage and reset my metering screws. Couldn't finish due to pesky neighbours. Now if someone had said to me that my THROTTLE ARM might be jamming against my SECONDARY LINKAGE i might have caught this sooner. But when you just say check your throttle linkage i would assume you mean just the primary throttle arm linkage. Hope this helps someone. Be posting again when done.
    Last edited by Ryan; 12-24-2012 at 12:06 AM.

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