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Thread: Fuel Pumped Randomly Stopped Priming

  1. #1

    Default Fuel Pumped Randomly Stopped Priming

    I've had the Sniper for a little over a year now on my blueprint SBC 350. Never had any problems. Drove to work today like any other day. Then I got back in and turned the key to prime, but nothing. Fuel pump randomly stopped priming. I have power, fuses look good. Checked the connections everywhere except the pump itself as I don't have a jack here at work. I didn't redo the Wizard, but I did unplug the negative side of the battery and plug it back in with no luck. Any ideas what might be wrong? hoping for an easy fix so I can drive home tonight LOL. It's an hour drive so I'm hoping to avoid a tow.

  2. #2

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    If you're using the standard Sniper wiring, pull the pump relay and re-seat it. If that doesn't do anything, if you have someone that can help, feel and/or listen for the relay to click when you turn on the ignition. If the relay seems to be energizing, then the problem is likely to be somewhere from the relay down to the pump. Is the handheld booting up normally? Random to me means sometimes or occasionally. Does it work sometimes and not others or did it suddenly die this time and it has never happened before?

  3. #3

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    I pulled the relay and the fuse and re-seated both. This is the first time this has ever happened. I don't have anyone here at work with me, but I've got a tow on the way this evening. I'll check it out when I get home. The handheld works just fine as well as all the sensors. I'm probably just going to remove the pump and hook it straight to the battery to test it. I'll update when I've found out what's wrong.

  4. #4

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    Check the fuse in the Sniper harness. Also as said above, the relay might be bad. Not sure what type of tools you have available to you, but if the relay is bad you can jump across it for an emergency. You don't need to remove the pump to test it, you should be able to apply +12V to the Sniper harness at the relay.

  5. #5

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    You'd think with driving an old Chevy I'd carry around tools, but I don't. And I honestly don't know how to jump across the relay? The tow is already scheduled, so I'll just deal with it when I get home. It's an inline pump, super easy to remove/get to. Thanks for the info though. For future reference, can you post a pic of how to jump across the relay?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    26,766

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    He's referring to using a short jumper wire across relay socket terminals #30 & #87.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7

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    Ah, I see. I'll have to try that some time.

  8. #8

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    Basically hot wiring the relay. Relays tend to be fairly reliable so most people don't carry a spare with them, but a hot wire can sometimes be created from spare parts on hand.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...7668#post87668 ("Test Relay" for troubleshooting/diagnosis.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  10. #10

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    So I put a wire from the blue power wire at the relay straight to the battery and the pump started working. So I tried to turn it on and it primed and started. Then it died after it about 5-7 minutes after. I think more so because I was playing with the IAC. Anyways I tried to power the pump straight off the battery again, and no go. So I pulled the pump and ran it directly off the battery. Runs fine so I guess I'll be replacing a fuse & relay, and checking for bad connections.

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