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Thread: Holley Brawler electric choke problem.

  1. #1

    Default Holley Brawler electric choke problem.

    Just recently installed a new Brawler 650 with mechanical secondary (double pumper) install was straightforward. Ran power to choke, etc., and started truck. Has to hold choke open to start it because it would flood. All running now and dialing in electric choke. Problem I have is that fast idle screw on choke is still 1-8 of an inch away from cam even if I take main idle screw and back it out all the way. It’s almost like lower cam lever for choke side was installed or phased wrong. The usual on hold and local shop says bring it in and we will send it away for three weeks. Edelbrock is starting to look good when you look at hold times on the phone. Losing all hope with Holley product. Ideas. Picture share?

  2. #2
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    This video may help you:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BTiXcMHdXM. Gary

  3. #3

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    Appreciate sharing video, but done all that. Fast idle screw is not long enough to reach cam. Base idle set around 750 to 800. Four corner air screws at 1.5. Either wrong shorter screw from factory or main idle screwed in to much to maintain base idle? I don’t think so cause it might only be 1.5 turns in from contact. Accelerator pump screws are not pushing down either. Timing and everything is perfect and close to 15° on vaccon at idle on large front port. Vacuum pulls up good if other port.

  4. #4
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    Can you get a photo, even if using a mirror? With the fast idle screw screwed right in, and on the highest step, the engine should be racing at 3000 RPM or so. I have yet to hear of this on any Holley carb. Gary

  5. #5

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    Does not allow to attach a picture, so please share how screw all the way in and I might get 1200 if the alignment is perfect.

  6. #6
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    Pictures must be linked to a picture hosting website. I use Photobucket.com, or attached directly to a forum post if it's on your computer ("Go Advanced" & "Attachments").
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7
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    From the Holley electric choke instructions:
    Assemble the choke housing to the main body. Make sure the choke rod is through the hole in the lever on the back of the
    choke housing. Make sure that the fast idle cam (red lever) is above the choke rod. Slide the housing onto the choke rod
    until the lever is past the hole in the rod. Using the fastener clip retained in step 1, secure the choke housing to the rod.
    On automotive applications, ensure that the fast idle cam is above the choke rod, and that the fastener clip secures the
    choke lever.
    Regards, Gary

  8. #8

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    The choke activates and works as it should and is 100% as delivered "new carb" out of box from speed shop. Again with screw all the way in, it will "just contact" red cam at widest/largest point to give minimal bump in RPM "not 3000 RPM".
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Another view to try and see cam. There's a significant amount of chrome that makes pictures up close tough to see:
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9
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    Is this the lever, the screw bush and screw that your carb has?
    Including the fitment of the plastic bush, note it can be fitted incorrectly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Gaz64; 09-14-2020 at 06:29 PM.
    Regards, Gary

  10. #10

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    Yes, that looks similar other that mine is a silver lever. Plastic bushing piece is on same side, and screw is in same place. Screw can bottom out to steel and just make contact with red cam largest diameter area/ramp to raise RPM a small amount. Screw won't touch lower ramps. That lever is indexed with two flat spots so it can't be installed wrong. I'll need a parts breakdown or something. Measurement for proper length of screw, etc. My supplier wants me to send carb back to Holley, so I imagine I'd lose three weeks. That means putting the Edlebrock 1406 back on. May have to compare to new one on shelf? Seems like a lot of work for purchasing a new carb.

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