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Thread: 6530 Programmable Install

  1. #11
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    Can I ask why you're grounding the purple, and not jumping the purple to green? To test for spark on Purple (violet & green), you use a paperclip to short the pair on & off, each time the short is removed, spark should occur. Purple & green are for magnetic pickup. White is for points type input. I love your car, Dan. Gary

  2. #12

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    Of course. So with a HEI style distributor, it's how the MSD tech instructed me to do it.
    Bring #1 to TDC on power stroke, confirm rotor is pointing at #1 post on cap, pull #1 plug wire and put next to ground and then short only purple wire on a ground. I think it's to confirm that spark is or isnt making it to the plug. You could perform this on a cylinder wire you wanted really. Learned a lot from the guy at MSD.

    Thanks! Been a lot of work! First car I've painted. Few blems here and there, but overall it came out really nice and I'm happy with it. Dan

  3. #13
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    Do you get the same result shorting the purple to green? If you have spark shorting white to ground, and no spark purple to green, the module is faulty. Gary
    Regards, Gary

  4. #14

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    When shorting purple to green, I get one spark which makes sense, as that's what the engine sounded like when I'd try and fire it. White wire to ground, it makes spark all day. Dan

    Thinking of going this route maybe, instead of a Pro Billet distributor. All for rotor phasing.
    https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...g-relates-efi/

  5. #15
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    I'd say you have a faulty module. Testing Purple to ground only proves the purple wire. Jumping purple to green also proves the green wire circuit. And you should run an adjustable rotor, and have a modified spare cap to check rotor phasing. Gary
    Regards, Gary

  6. #16
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    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Ensure the distributor's rotor-phasing is correct:
    http://documents.msdperformance.com/8644_tb.pdf (MSD Rotor-Phasing Document)
    MSD has a good video on why it's important:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM (MSD Tech Rotor-Phasing Video)

    For naturally aspirated engines, the rotor is usually phased halfway between minimum & maximum amount of timing advance used.
    For forced induction engines, the rotor is usually phased at maximum boost retard, because that's when cylinder pressure is the greatest.

    Testing the MSD CD ignition box.
    Points Output - white wire & Magnetic Pickup - violet/green triggering:
    https://www.msdperformance.com/suppo...ng_techniques/ (Troubleshooting Info)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #17

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    Got the box back. Great customer service. Sense then I purchased a Pro Billet 85551 distributor, Blaster 2 coil, and 8420 MSD cap adapter kit. Hook box up to car, and to computer. Same thing, car fires once. I'm 1000% sure I'm on TDC of compression stroke. In fact, I static timed it for 12°. Did a spark test, good to go. Try firing engine again, fires once. So I unhook computer cord from box. Car fires right up, purrs like a kitten. Hmm, hook box up to computer, car dies. Try starting, one fire. Unhook from computer, fires right up, purs like a kitten. I have a flat curve plotted, straight across the top. Makes no sense to me. Any ideas? Thanks, Dan

  8. #18

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    Turns out it was the #9 pin in the cable. MSD tech said to remove pin. My USB port was sending voltage to the box turning it off. Finally got it up & running. Thought I'd follow up on post incase it helps anyone. Thanks Gary and the guys at MSD for the help. Now on to tuning and getting all the wires cleaned up. Dan

  9. #19
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    Thanks for your info there Dan. Gary

  10. #20

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    Gary, my pleasure. Say, is that your orange beast on YouTube? Griffs?

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