Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: How to reset a 4160 600?

  1. #1

    Default How to reset a 4160 600?

    Hi. I've been here before, but that was many years ago. Like I said. I have a 4160 600 CFM carb. I can start the engine no problem. It happens after I start it. The engine revs high. Then when the electric choke opens it dies. I have been reading how to set various things, but I'd like to get it back to where it started from. I heard some where that you screw in the needles on both sides all of the way in. Then back them out one full turn on both sides. I then can back off on the high speed idle. I was told because I have a mild cam that I should leave the high speed idle set up to 1500 RPM. Now when I put the car into drive. It dies. I also emptied the gas tank, and have fresh gas in the tank. Can someone help me PLEASE!

  2. #2

    Default

    Your thread did not mention if the carb was new or used, if used how long has it been sitting, have you replaced/reset any internal parts?
    As far as the side air bleed screws, one full turn out will be in the ballpark to idle well enough. Your combo should easily idle under 1000, perhaps as low as 600 to 750 RPM.

    Since it runs when the choke is on, but not off and it wants to only run above 1000 RPM, l'll take a guess it's a vacuum leak some where.
    Look carefully around the entire carb for any tubes that are not plugged. Also check connections for any vacuum tubing from carb or intake, especially PVC or power brake lines if you have any.

    Other areas could be carb base gasket seal area. If the intake has been replaced, perhaps the intake gasket is out of position
    Some intakes have EGR passages. If this area has been disturbed recently, you need to review it.
    One last thing, did you recently set or adjust rocker arms? If you did, it's possible one is tightened too far down causing a vacuum leak.
    Some camshaft installs require custom rocker adjustment nuts like poly locks to get the correct preload on hydraulic lifters. Good Luck.

  3. #3

    Default

    The carb was new last year. I started the car, and put it away for the season. There was old gas in the tank which I replaced with fresh gas. The carb was not fully setup. That's what I'm trying to do now. I turned in the Idle mixture screws in, and out 1 1/2 turns. Starts up fine, idle goes up some, but not as bad as it did with the bad gas. I turned down the curb idle screw a little to have a little lower idle, but there's something else that needs to be done. I have to have it put into gear with the brake set, and adjust what screw?

  4. #4

    Default

    The front throttle shaft has a screw that adjusts how far the front throttle blades stay open at idle. This is the main idle screw it is on the outside of the drivers side of the carb right above the end of the front throttle shaft. The two front side metering block screws are for fine adjustment richness at idle and near off idle. When the main idle screw is set to your desired RPM, then you can fine tune the metering block adjustment screws for smoothness. Some people use a vacuum gauge for this. The highest reading vacuum amount is what to look for. If you don't have one, adjust until seat of the pants best smoothness of the engine is experienced will be good enough.

  5. #5

    Default

    Do you know where I might be able to see a picture of that?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,944

  7. #7

    Default

    That kind of helps, but the engine is a 1968 Chevy 350, with a mild cam. No tag to check where it should be set. Have to try that vacuum tuning. Thanks.

    What happens is when I get the idle set nice, and it's warmed up and the plate is open. I can put it in drive, and it dies. Unless I feather the pedal. Would that now be in the idle screws?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,944

    Default

    What engine speed is the engine idling at in neutral?
    What ignition timing at idle?
    You should be setting final hot idle IN GEAR, handbrake on, and preferably with another person in the drivers seat. Gary

  9. #9

    Default

    Post some pics. One of each of the four sides of the carb, less than 2 feet away, couple of pics of top of engine about 3 feet away from several directions. That could help people on this forum possibly see something that could help you.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us