Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Dual Sync Issue

  1. #11

    Default

    Madmax2, thanks for the input. I don't want to go that route as I'm trying to keep the engine super clean and I've hidden all the wiring in a SS conduit for the injectors. In all your research, have you discovered why these Dual Sync distributors rust? I was shocked when the Holley tech guy said they all rust and to drill a couple holes in the cap or remove it. Very poor design if that's what's required to prevent rust.

  2. #12

    Default

    Haven't had any trouble out of my Dual Sync distributor so far. In hindsight a junkyard Vortec 350 distributor, timing chain set and crank reluctor would've cost half as much, last for 200,000 miles. And be just as easy to convert to Coil-Near-Plug setup down the road.

    For a $365.00 distributor it does seem ridiculous for how many have trouble with them. Wonder how much ionization inside the cap contributes to the oxidation? In other words, if used as cam/crank signal only and no spark whirling around in it do they still look like that after a while?

  3. #13

    Default

    Hi Bill. If there was any other option to not go with the Dual Sync distributor, believe me, I would take in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, I don’t have the room for another distributor as the Hilborn ITB intake limits room at the firewall, etc. The Dual Sync distributor is awesome when it's first installed, but after a while it starts showing signs of rust and the car starts acting up and eventually won't run. I guess I know now from all the info I've recently found online, and what MSD tech told me (remove the cap), that I'm dealing with a very poor design and there's not much that can be done other than removing the cap every once in a while.

    You're bang on about the cost being a bit ridiculous for how much trouble these things cause and how unreliable they are, almost $700.00 CAN with shipping, duties & taxes.

    If there's anyone out there that has an MSD Dual Sync distributor Gen2 that's not having the same rust issues that the rest of us out there are, please chime in and let us know your setup and how you are preventing the rust. Danny, if you have any ideas and a solution, I'd love to hear about it and it'd be very much appreciated.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    28,778

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smalliehunter View Post
    Danny, if you have any ideas and a solution, I'd love to hear about it and it'd be very much appreciated.
    Sorry, I don’t use distributors. I use Holley distributorless ignition systems (cam sync unit & DIS/CNP).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, R134a A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Buenos Aires, Argentina.
    Posts
    91

    Default

    Cheap ferrous materials, I have a rusty MSD billet distributor too.
    My old OEM distributos never do rust for ionization (Chevy & Mopar). I buy a Dual Sync for CNP use.

  6. #16

    Default

    Danny what are people doing about belts being out of alignment when fitting a trigger wheel as they're around 1/4" 6mm thick so all the belts are now out of alignment? Would OK for someone just running a electric water pump and a alternator, but when you have A/C & P/S with a water pump makes it hard. Are people machine the face of balancer by the same thickness of the trigger wheel? Cheers.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    28,778

    Default

    In reference to shimming accessory belt driven components forward: Water pump pulley flange shims are commonly available.
    The easy way to shim the other accessory belt driven components: Purchase (LINK/LINK) or fabricate thick aluminum washers.
    I've made them with aluminum flat bar, using a 1" hole saw, then enlarge/drill the I.D. hole you need (usually 3/8" or 7/16" I.D.).
    The aluminum flat stock material is easy to drill/cut through, and is available at the local hardware store. Perfect round washers!
    Use 1/8" (.125") shim washers to shim the belt driven accessory brackets forward, if installing Holley's 60-2 crank trigger kit.
    Use 1/4" (.250") shim washers to shim the belt driven accessory brackets forward, if installing Holley's 36-1 crank trigger kit.
    Use 3/8" (.375") shim washers to shim the belt driven accessory brackets forward, for an MSD Flying Magnet crank trigger kit.
    Some custom built crank trigger kits don't require shimming accessory belt driven components. My two examples:
    BBF http://forums.holley.com/showthread....nk-Trigger-Kit (Custom 60-2 Crank Trigger Kit)
    SBF https://forums.holley.com/showthread...464#post100464 (Scroll down to NOTE #4.)

    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3038#post33038 (Detailed Crank Trigger/DIS Conversion Information & Reasoning)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...-great-upgrade! (Distributor vs. DIS/CNP/COP Ignition Timing Difference & Feel)

  8. #18

    Default

    Wow, some good info in there, I'll be reading for awhile.

    I see you did machine the balance on SBF, had the same thought if I go that way.
    I also see you're running waste-spark, I thought I read you posted awhile ago that Holley doesn't support waste-spark anymore? That would be something to look at as well for me. Cheers, great info.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    2,119

    Default

    Name:  IMG_0222.jpeg
Views: 63
Size:  3.9 KB
    I have to say, this is a very nice engine bay. Is this EFI, since it has the look of mechanical FI? Gary

  10. #20

    Default

    Hi Gary, sorry for the late reply. I appreciate the compliment on my engine bay, I put a lot of time into her and comments like yours make it all worth while. It's actually a Hilborn mechanical intake converted to an EFI setup. I have a center fuel distribution block and I piped SS tubing from the block to all the injector heads and machined the throttle bodies just below the butterflies where the original pill or nozzles where located. For the vacuum, I fabricated a header that sits under the intake in the lifter valley and the runouts connect to the runners. I got really good vacuum and fuel delivery, never an issue. Morey

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us