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Thread: New build - dual quad marine engines.

  1. #1

    Default New build - dual quad marine engines.

    Hello all. Figured till I get to learning some I should head to the inexperienced section!

    My powerboat currently had (pulled now) a big block Chevy 502 with 871s and Accel DFI so I learned a bit about EFI from that. However, the opportunity came up to swap in all new power and decided it was definitely time for new EFI as well. New engines are tall deck 572 with 1071 blowers. Last time they were dynoed with carbs they made ~990 horsepower.

    Plan currently is to piece together:
    HP ECU 554-113
    HP Main Harness 558-104
    HP Power harness

    Terminator
    2x4 Main 558-121
    2x4 Primary harness 558-459
    2x4 Slave harness 558-442

    Terminator Stealth
    Service TB 534-225
    Slave TB 534-240

    I'm just wondering if there are any specific harnesses for the 2x4 that simplifies the 2x4 harnessing or need all 3 of those. How about linkages? Just a regular carb linkage? I'm assuming the linkages on my Accufab throttle bodies from the accel won't work?
    I can take or leave the carburetor look, but I'm being told for this application it's best/easiest/most plug & play, and capable of more power than the regular 4BBL non-Stealth? But I can't see how other than injector size, both 950 cfm, both 80 lb/hr injectors, but trying to not nitpick ha,ha just curious in performance differences. Also, if this simplifies linkage issue I'll deal with the carb look LOL.

    Also, if these engines happen to want to make say 1100 HP one of these days, I'm afraid those injectors (80s) might be at their upper limit. Will Holley swap in 100 lb/hr in all 4 of my throttle bodies if I purchase all this? I do not want to have to buy 16 more injectors right away! Hah. 100 lb x 8 tbi good for 1100 horse?

    How about knock sensors? Which ones? MAP sensor is it built-in to the Stealth or I'll need that as well? If so, which one? Coolant temp, IAT temp, can I do manifold temp as well? Would be awesome to datalog pressurized intake temp vs IAT in the hat. Can this system also monitor oil temp and oil pressure, and run a oil pressure ignition cut? I need all of these things!

    Can I run the small screen with this system? That would be great to datalog to that little screen to SD card, which I can hang in the engine bay, then look at with laptop after a run. For the boat this would be a great option, or for the HP is it either the big Digital Dash or laptop? Really not looking to buy Digital Dash at this point, but definitely want the little screen if it plugs into the HP.

    Sorry so many questions, like I said this is why I headed to the "inexperienced" section ha, ha! I guess my final question is since I need/want all these extra things, would I be better off with one of the kits? But then I'd be with the Terminator ECU correct? And for offshore boat hitting waves I really want a fully potted ECU. I think the reason we are piecing together is because in boat I really dont need some components for car. Only thing street related I do plan to use the "A/C Kick" for when I'm shifting into gear, turning those big props, give it a little proactive approach to the load as well as the reactive approach to the load. I fully trust my dealer and his Holley Rep! I'm just trying to learn a little more without bugging them too much and if there are any better routes for what I want to accomplish! Thanks! Joe

    Should add, shortly after posting this I found an older thread saying my only choice was to jump right from 80 lb/hr to 205 lb/hr? Really? And I need to have a harness adapater then? Or it still can't be done at all with the Stealth?

    I also was planning on running Holley Dual Sync distributor, 6M-2L and HVC 2 coil, but also I'm reading the Holley Dual Sync isn't plug & play with the HP? Is that still true or did they change it now? Thanks for help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    26,777

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    If you need that much purchasing help, please contact your Holley EFI dealer. I suggest Chris Myer at EFISystemPro.com or Richard Nedbal (FastManEFI) at EFIExpert.com.
    Purchasing from either one of the Holley EFI Dealers I suggested is better than buying direct from Holley or an aftermarket store/speed shop. You'll need tech help before & after the sale, and you'll probably save money too.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    EFI Software Help Information/Instructions:
    ‒ On the top Toolbar, click "Help" & "Contents". This opens all Help topics.
    ‒ When navigating the software, click "Help ?", drag it to any parameter and click again.
    ...This automatically opens the definitions for that specific parameter.
    ‒ Tuning information can be read by clicking the F1 key, when you're viewing any screen.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibrary_199r10544.pdf (Holley EFI Help/Instructions Overview)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...r10546rev1.pdf (Holley EFI Quick Start Guide)
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual & Diagrams)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....ents-Read-This (Initial Checks & Adjustments - Read Steps #1-#6!)
    Open the Holley EFI software "Help" Contents ("Help" drop down menu), and read "Step-By-Step Beginners Tuning".
    Ensure the EFI software is set to run as an "Administrator" (right click for Properties/Advanced). Set it and forget it.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

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    Thanks Danny. I actually opened up a conversation with Chris this morning. Joe

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    26,777

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    You're welcome.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    You don't need the Dual Sync distributor since you are running throttle bodies, so use the less expensive HyperSpark distributor. There's an adapter so it plugs into the HP EFI harness.
    80 lb/hr injectors are fine since you have eight per engine. That gives you a total of 640 lbs/hr which should be good for 1000+ HP in a blown application. Once you get it running just creep up on the WOT and watch the datalogs to see what your duty cycle is.
    Using a handheld on each engine is a good idea, since that gives you a simple way to run a datalog or do a firmware upgrade or just to look at the gauges. You probably need to spend some time with a dealer going over the various options. If you already have Accufab throttle bodies then if might be cheaper to use them and go MPFI or put the injectors in a plate under the throttle bodies. Another option would be to use dual Snipers on each engine.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    26,777

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyF View Post
    There's an adapter so it plugs into the HP EFI harness.
    It's now plug & play. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/558-323 (Holley EFI 558-323 HyperSpark Distributor Ignition Adapter)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    It's now plug & play. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/558-323 (Holley EFI 558-323 HyperSpark Distributor Ignition Adapter)
    That's cool. The first time I used a HyperSpark with an HP harness I had to talk to a bunch of people to even find out if it would work. I assumed it would work, but nobody seemed to know. Finally found one guy at Holley who told me it should work. He said the HyperSpark generated the same signal as the Dual Sync. But there wasn't a harness available then so I had to build my own. Not really a big deal if you have a kit of Metri-Pack parts. Glad to see that Holley got around to supporting it. The HyperSpark is a better choice if you are TBI or batch fire since they tend to be less expensive and less bulky than the Dual Sync distributor.

  8. #8

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    Thanks Guys! The reason I was going to go with the Dual Sync is the other suggestion I was given was going HEI, but he said that those can get a little iffy above 6000 RPM, I won't spend much time up there, but I probably will set my rev limit to 6200 or 6500. I'm going to have way too much into this project to have ignition issues up top because I cheaped out on distributor/coil, hah. But I certainly am looking to not throw money away either. Is the HyperSpark good for higher RPM up in that range? Andy you mentioned the Dual Sync being bulky, that probably could be an issue with 1071 blower anyway?



    I'm still torn between the standard 4BBL and the Stealth. I really like the look of the standard better. I'm speaking to Chris at EFI Systems Pro now, and he said "Every application is different, some engineering may have to be done with linkages." He thinks I'd have less clearance/linkage issues with the standard 4BBL, would you guys agree? With my Accufab throttle bodies the linkage was to the side of engine and pretty simple. The one car I saw at a local shop had a blower with the dual 4BBL just like I want to do, he had the linkages pointing toward the front of the car, so his choices were to either cut to keep them from hitting the blower, instead he made this pretty elaborate looking linkage and used a spacer to make it work without cutting anything. I don't like any of that. Is there any reason on those the linkages must face forward? **Edit just went and looked at that car again this afternoon, the little fuel rails would interfere if turned the other way. Now I see. I know the Stealth has to be sideways to fit, but then is it just the same as any other Holley dual carb setup and those linkages can just be purchased? I'm not against custom fabricating stuff just in this case I have enough other stuff to do to not want to have to engineer linkages.

    Thanks guys! just trying to learn all I can! Also by the way, Andy thanks for the recommendation about reusing my Accufab throttle bodies to save some $, but I think I want to keep those complete with the old dinosaur Accel systems that go on the old engines, in case I have those engines gone through their EFI system is still complete, and have all new on the new engines. And about the injectors, yeah if I make 1000 or a little less (probable) they'll be fine. I'm just not understanding why there isn't 100 or 120 lb injectors, that you have to jump from 80 right to 205, or are others available I'm just not seeing. Thanks again! **Edit after looking at that car again and seeing that insane linkage he had to come up with again, the accufab throttle bodies started looking pretty good LOL... so I would just remove the tree of injectors above the blades, block off fueling, then go with a plate system? Is atomization of fuel just as good with those plates as with the wet throttle bodies? I wish I could do port injection, but since that isn't in the cards I really want the best fueling I can get from a TBI set up with what is currently available...
    Last edited by JDWildCard37; 08-04-2020 at 05:03 PM.

  9. #9

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    Just wanted to revisit this thread, with a few pics for anyone that may see it that is considering distributor size. Sorry @ Andy maybe I misunderstood, but you said the Dual Sync was big and bulky, which in comparison to what I was working with really isn't true, maybe other types of engines there's more difference? These just compare to my Pro Billet from old engines, plus another even older, I think the dimensions are nearly the same even though the Dual Sync does look slimmer, width is actually a pinch less with the Dual Sync checked with calipers. I do appreciate the advice to save a little money with the HyperSpark anywhere we can save is good but, decided after all to go with the Dual Sync. For fueling, I ended up going with Holley's plate, 2 x 4 billet 1000 TBs and the HP. Can't wait!
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