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Thread: Terminator/Dual Sync & 6AL Setup

  1. #1

    Default Terminator/Dual Sync & 6AL Setup

    Almost to the point of firing up my Mopar 440, but just want to verify my connections since the Terminator instructions leave out any reference to running a Dual Sync & 6AL. Have the 550-405K, 565-203 Dual Sync & MSD 6425. I want to let the Terminator control timing, just not sure how it triggers the CDI box. A drawing would be great if anyone has done this. Also do I need to update my software? Thanks in advance!

  2. #2

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    All the info you need is here at this link: https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro...gnition-wiring

  3. #3

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    TCM thanks a million! This is exactly what I needed!
    Last edited by Flanagam; 07-23-2020 at 10:44 AM. Reason: Auto incorrect

  4. #4

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    You're welcome.

  5. #5

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    So I have everything setup correctly, phased the Dual Sync per directions, main harness (loose) white wire tied to 6AL. Tried to start today and it appears I'm not getting any spark, (had timing light connected). Can see from, fuel psi, AFR all on the laptop dash. How do I know if the white wire is triggering my box? And yes, it's setup as Custom, Points Output, Digital Falling/Single Pulse & 2.0 usec. Thanks.
    Last edited by Danny Cabral; 08-08-2020 at 08:13 PM.

  6. #6

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    Did you perform a TPS Autoset? Is there an RPM signal while cranking? To confirm if the CDI box is being triggered by the ECU, the LED should blink while cranking. Try tapping the white wire to ground with key on and see if the coil fires. https://www.holley.com/support/troub...ng_techniques/
    Last edited by tcm308; 08-09-2020 at 03:35 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Testing the MSD CD ignition box ground trigger.
    Points Output - white wire & Magnetic Pickup - violet/green triggering:
    https://www.msdperformance.com/suppo...ng_techniques/ (Troubleshooting Info)

    Ensure the distributor's rotor-phasing is correct:
    http://documents.msdperformance.com/8644_tb.pdf (MSD Rotor-Phasing Document)
    MSD has a good video on why it's important:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWMlNwGW0tM (MSD Tech Rotor-Phasing Video)

    For naturally aspirated engines, the rotor is usually phased halfway between minimum & maximum amount of timing advance used.
    For forced induction engines, the rotor is usually phased at maximum boost retard, because that's when cylinder pressure is the greatest.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  8. #8

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    Danny, are you saying that the Dual Sync should have phasing checked, even if it's installed per Holley recommended Reference Angle of 50°?
    Last edited by Bill C; 08-10-2020 at 06:01 AM.

  9. #9
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    No, the Dual Sync distributor doesn't need the rotor-phasing checked. Sorry, I was in a hurry when I posted that "copy & paste" reply, and forgot to delete the rotor-phasing reference.

  10. #10

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    Sorry for a late reply. After a (several) failed attempts to start the car, I gave up for the day and came home frustrated as heck. Replayed all the troubleshooting in my head, convinced myself that something was wrong with the ECU. About midnight it hit me...you dumb a$%, you checked power to the CDI box in run never verified at crank. Couldn't stand it, went back to the shop Sunday corrected a jumper and it immediately lit off. So I'm currently trying to get the exhaust on so I can better tune the idle. Been reading a lot that I need to have the Open Loop at idle for this cam (246°/252°, 110° LSA). Where should it switch to, close 1500-1800? Target AFR/Timing? Sea level?
    Last edited by Flanagam; 08-16-2020 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Auto-incorrect

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