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Thread: Digital 6AL stalls, but always restarts.

  1. #11

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    The magnetic pickup can be tested with your multimeter using the AC voltage setting and should produce around 4 volts spinning the distributor shaft quickly by hand, a heat gun can be used if you suspect a heat related issue. You could also test the coil output with an adjustable spark tester, a minimum of 30 kV should be produced. Also, the heat gun could be used to heat the CDI box during the test.

  2. #12

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    Monday I replaced the magnetic pickup and took it out for a drive for a while, no issues. Last night we drove into the city for a cruise around, about a three hour round trip, and it shut off once in slow traffic, much better than before, but still frustrating.

  3. #13

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    Can a person send these boxes back to Holley/MSD and have them tested? Are the old Made in USA MSD 6AL boxes still available? I’d like to get away from the made in China component.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    29,072

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    Yes, MSD will test your CDI box.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger, 1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, R134a A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust, off-road X-pipe, shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD, 3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #15

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    As an update, one of the last times driving the car the ignition momentarily quit and the tach dropped to zero. The tach stayed at zero RPM, yet the car was still running.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    2,146

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    So now faulty "tach out" signal, wire, or tachometer?

  7. #17

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    It only did that once where it stayed running after it stumbled, but the tachometer stayed showing no RPM. Tachometer itself always works otherwise.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    2,146

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    A shame you couldn't locate the cause. Wait for it to become more prevalent. Gary
    Regards, Gary

  9. #19

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    I got an RMA number to send the box back for testing. Before I sent it back, I tried one last thing and wired the main ground straight to the battery, instead of the ground bus bar up under the dash. We had a short window to get the car out for another drive before the weather turned again this past Saturday. I’m happy to report that it did not stall at all on our drive. Hopefully soon I’ll get some more nice days and re-test it.

  10. #20

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    I've had the car out again for a good long drive and it never skipped a beat. I think that's all it was, intermittent bad ground.

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