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Thread: Dual Sync 565-201 Wiring

  1. #21

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    Can't imagine either being the case. Before I ditched the TFI the car would run for long periods of time without a problem, but then would die erratically. Anything else to check? Solenoid? Ignition switch?

  2. #22

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    How much voltage should I have at the red/white wire with the key on? Using a tester it only shows like .2 volts. I'm guessing this is a problem, LOL. What would cause this?

  3. #23
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    It should be +12V key-on/engine-off, cranking & running. That's why I mentioned this. Some Holley EFI users have voltage consistency problems with their switched +12V red/white wire. As a test, temporarily connect the red/white wire directly to the battery, and see if the engine starts & runs.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  4. #24

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    Thanks for the quick replies Danny. Is there a solution?

  5. #25
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    I added to post #23 above. Where's your switched +12V red/white wire connected to?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  6. #26

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    Red/white wire hooked to battery positive and no change. Still no RPM signal, intermittent syncing & error. I've had it tied into the fuse box.

  7. #27
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    Connecticut
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    This is a long shot, but read the 3rd paragraph anyway:

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Crank & Cam Sensor Wiring Tips:
    The 10-pin Ignition Connector has one "Chassis Ground" (loose black wire ground) and two "IPU Grounds" (clean ECU ground).
    Don't use "Chassis Ground" to ground an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors). It's quick & easy to move the ignition
    module ground wire from (cavity) pin D "Chassis Ground" to pin C or G "IPU Ground", where it should be.

    If you don't have the actual Metri-Pack terminal release tool, a "safety pin" will work.
    It just needs to be a stiff wire between .030"-.035" in diameter to release the terminal tab.
    Then reopen (bend) the terminal tab before reinsertion, so it will clip (lock) into the cavity.
    http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-6 Micro Terminal Release Pick Tool)

    Also, don't use (cavity) pin E "Switched +12V" from the 10-pin Ignition Connector, to power an ignition module
    (or crank & cam sensors), unless you've modified the wiring source to connect from pin B20 - EST 12V Output
    (P1B ECU Connector). This LINK explains why & how to do it.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Sections 2.1 "Pin-Outs" & 13.0 "Wiring Appendix")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  8. #28

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    I have 12 volts at Pin E at the ignition connector so I'm thinking that isn't likely the problem. B20 on my older Terminator harness (install manual 199R10653 is already occupied with a white wire that feeds 12 volts to both CAN Bus connectors. Damn is this frustrating. The car was running with TFI just as it was wired in the cockpit for 30K miles.
    Last edited by chillininnh; 05-10-2020 at 02:01 PM.

  9. #29

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    What's the minimum cranking voltage required for the dual sync? Thinking it may be a lack of voltage problem.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Around 9 volts.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

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