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Thread: RPM Error, PLEASE HELP.

  1. #1

    Default RPM Error, PLEASE HELP.

    I recently installed the TERMINATOR X in my Turbo LS Nova. I've had nothing but issues. When I first got it installed I was having the 6th LED flashing red and 7th flashing blue. The car wouldn't idle, and if step on the gas it would pop, crack & die. I read a lot about flipping the A & C pin on the cam sensor, I tried that and still didn't work. I've triple checked all grounds and power wires, bought a new cam and crank sensor, (ACDelco) and now I'm getting the 7th light to stay green, but the 6th is still red. It runs a lot better, but I can tell it's still not right. If I shut the cam sensor off it will run OK. When it's cranking over, the RPM goes from stall to showing RPM, then when it runs it'll show RPM, but flash Error. I'm getting power & ground at both sensors. All wires look to be OK. I know the crank sensor is working, but I think it's no in sync with the cam sensor. I have a 24x crank & 1x cam sensor, located by oil sending unit. Can someone please point me in the right direction? I've pulled the cam sensor and tried to move the reluctor wheel and it seems OK. All grounds and powers are correct. The main power and ground go straight to the battery. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    24,094

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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy10795 View Post
    If I shut the cam sensor off it will run OK.
    You'll have to determine what's wrong with the cam sensor signal.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    The cam LED is green, the crank LED is red, I think the issue is they're not in sync. So when I shut the cam sensor off, the ECU doesn't look for the cam signal. It runs because the injection is Bank-To-Bank because the ECU doesn't know where the cam & crank are at to inject the way it should.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    24,094

    Default

    I know this. GM LSx crank/cam signals shouldn't be out of sync. Again, you'll have to determine what's wrong with the cam sensor signal (since it runs properly off the crank signal).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    I got ya. I'm about to pull the timing chain cover off and check to make sure the cam is lined up with crank on timing marks.

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