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Thread: Oscillating Idle

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    25,508

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    The Holley 543-34 is a GM IAC (a direct replacement for GM 17113598), so it should be wired correctly.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  2. #12

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    OK, thanks for that. Out of curiosity what's the Holley IAC that's in the wiring diagram that I have seen on here?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    25,508

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    That's the Holley/Chrysler 543-105 IAC motor. It's the other very common IAC motor that Holley uses in their non-LSx applications.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....neral-IAC-Info (General IAC Information - Read "IAC NOTES")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  4. #14

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    I want to give a follow up to this post. I hooked a vacuum line up to a large 3/8" port on my intake and ran that to a gauge inside the car. The vacuum was appropriate for the cam I'm running. I decided to unhook the line while the engine was struggling to idle and the idle cleaned up a bunch. I then took fuel out of all of the Base Fuel Table under 2000 RPM and it got better. I kept at it and now it is steady at 1200, which is where I'll leave it. This is a race car with an ATI damper that has a very small serpentine pulley. It runs the water pump so much slower that the engine heats up very quick. Thanks to everyone who responded to all of my posts about this idling problem.

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