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Thread: Seasonal Idle Fine Tuning

  1. #21
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    Yeah, you did a good job there. And that yawpower.com guy (Paul Yaw - Injector Dynamics) knows his stuff.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  2. #22

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    Here's what I came up with, based on engine being tuned at 80°F and Baro of 100.3 kPa. Need to look through more of the dyno datalogs and verify that's the zero point I want to use. The built-in Holley Air Temp Enrichment table has to be effectively disabled by setting it to 100% across the board.




    Last edited by Qwktrip; 03-04-2020 at 03:28 PM.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qwktrip View Post
    Need to look through more of the dyno datalogs and verify that's the zero point I want to use.
    I reviewed road test datalogs to determined my zero point (100%).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Qwktrip View Post
    Here's what I came up with, based on engine being tuned at 76°F and Baro of 100.3 kPa. Need to look through more of the dyno datalogs and verify that's the zero point I want to use.
    Those numbers seem very aggressive. For example, I usually start with 110%-84% on the stock Holley map which is -40°F to 275°F. That puts 100% (no modifier) at around 80°F which is typically what we see with most street applications. Usually these numbers get in the ballpark. I believe it's numbers derived from ideal gas law I came up with a long time ago. But usually I need to mute the numbers a wee bit, that makes the slope flatter.

    At 93.9 kPa yours is 18.7 at -40°F and -30.4 at 275°F. That's 118.7% & 69.6%. I can tell you from experience that's a very aggressive slope. Keep in mind for the same location during weather changes, as you get colder the BARO tends to go UP.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Qwktrip View Post
    Thanks. Do you have a working example of an IAC Offset table that you've made? Seeing a working example would help me get a feel for the scale of adjustment we're talking about.
    I've done a bunch of IAC Offset tables, but never this specific example. However, this should be a good starting point:


    The behavior of this table would be no different than opening the throttle blade a bit and doing a TPS Autoset. IAC would be offset under all operating conditions.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by allan5oh View Post
    Those numbers seem very aggressive.
    Remember, this is both my Baro and Air Temp compensation tables combined. I zeroed out the Holley table for Air Temp Compensation. Does that seem more realistic now? Thanks for the examples!

  7. #27

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    I was going along one row which isolates the temperature from the BARO.

  8. #28

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    I'll give it a whirl this spring. Most my driving occurs inside a 4x4 region of that table, so won't take but a few different conditions to see how it works, or whether to abandon the idea.

  9. #29

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    Gosh darn it. I had to crack open the throttle blade a little more with the first 80°F day. Engine would tend to die when RPM quickly comes down to idle. I'm getting really frustrated because I feel like I can't reason my way out of this problem. There's something I'm not grasping yet and I don't know what it is. My buddy struggles with the same problem. We both have sizable cams with lightweight flywheel/clutch assemblies.

    I have "GM LSx" selected for my IAC Control. Out of curiosity, what are the behind-the-scenes Idle Control Parameters associated with that selection? I want to play with custom settings, but need to know my current baseline.

    Good news is my Baro vs. MAT table so far seems to be doing well. Learn Table is staying super tight.
    Last edited by Qwktrip; 05-24-2020 at 04:28 PM.

  10. #30

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    I'm just getting up to speed on Holley EFI with my RAMJET 350 project in my '88 Camaro, vs all the work over the last 10 years I've done with HP tuners in my '85 IROC LS with supercharger swap, and other LS swaps I've done with my son and friends. Idle tuning especially on more wild setups is much more challenging than almost anything else and the GM ECM have a ton of parameters to adjust for IAC and spark related to this activity.

    One thing you may want to initially look at, as you & I believe have an aggressive cam is to see if the system is chasing itself. I.E. Consider adjusting the Blanking window where the system lets itself "float" without adjustment. Also slowing down the proportional control will help with clutch disengaged stalls. I had to work this a lot with the GM ECM on my LS blower IROC, as I'd initially get a lot of stalls pressing in the clutch at speed. In the end, I was able to completely eliminate this and it was a combination of a good Blanking window and reasonable proportional control compared to a stock LS3. I'm sure you can achieve this with the Holley as well, but I do not know what their baseline advance settings are as they reference them as "normalized" values. I.E. 0 to 100 vs actual values. I'm sure you'll find out quickly what is reasonable, if the proportional is too slow you will know it as you press in the clutch the RPM will drop slowly or completely hang.

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