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Thread: Add Timing Control

  1. #1

    Default Add Timing Control

    Got my engine running good (except a minor cold start issue), but I’m going to setup timing control with a MSD Pro Billet distributor. I’ve got an adjustable rotor and rewiring for timing control. My question is, can I just enable timing control on my Config File I’m on now? Will this work or will I have to run the Wizard again? Thanks for any advice.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Crankshaft View Post
    ...but I’m going to setup timing control with a MSD Pro Billet distributor. I’ve got an adjustable rotor and rewiring for timing control.
    I'd stop here and purchase a Holley HyperSpark distributor.

    In my opinion, if a Holley EFI user isn't familiar with the Magnetic Ignition Type "Minimum Signal Voltage" &
    "Filtering" parameters (in System Parameters/Custom Ignition Parameters), then they have no business using
    VR/magnetic pickup type crank & cam sensors. This is the problem with using magnetic pickup type sensors,
    there's more tuning work/adjustment involved. Hall-Effect sensors are "set & forget", very easy to use.

    The more robust Hall-Effect sensors are preferred because they're not susceptible to EMI/RFI interference/noise,
    and their digital square-wave signal strength is consistent, regardless of RPM (unlike the VR magnetic sine-wave).
    Also, the VR magnetic pickup signal is weaker at cranking speeds.

    Another problem with using VR Magnetic sensors, is there's more tuning work. Hall-Effect is "set & forget".
    The VR Magnetic Sensor Type "Filtering" & "Minimum Signal Voltage" parameters need to be programmed.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10676rev.pdf (Magnetic Crank/Cam Input Filtering Parameters, Page 2)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....4450#post54450 (Example: Wrong Magnetic Parameters, Post #25)

    Hall-Effect: 3-wire, square wave signal (digital), pulse generation
    VR Magnetic: 2-wire, sine wave signal (inductive), voltage generation
    http://www.electronicproducts.com/El...g_for_you.aspx (Hall-Effect vs VR Magnetic)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    As someone who started on homebrew EFI, I think one can successfully achieve what you're planning, but expect a learning curve.

    1. Many people have seen problems with RFI interference from the adjustable rotor. Throw it away.
    2. Use this writeup by me to "phase" your rotor: https://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-...nce-angle.html. (This means using the "static timing" function in the Sniper handheld
    3. Set "Inductive Delay". Not all magnetic triggers are born equal, so as RPM increases your timing might wander off if the trigger speed of your distributor is not taken into account. So compare timing at idle and, say 3000 RPM. With the same static timing set, the timing should of course stay the same. So your task is to adjust Inductive Delay on the Sniper until timing stays nice & stable.
    4. If you encounter weird timing or misfire issues, try to play with Minimum Signal Voltage, increasing it will make your timing signal more immune to interference, but increasing it too much will mean that the Sniper will no longer get a reliable timing signal at crank & idle, and obviously you don't want that.
    5. Budget at least one full day of work for this. If you value that amount of your time at $250 or more, buy a HyperSpark distributor and be done within an hour or two. I'm cheap and enjoy tinkering, so I went with magnetic pickup, but it's a ride to get it right and if it does not work, it's the installer's fault, not the Sniper's.

  4. #4

    Default

    I would use a HyperSpark, but Holley doesn’t make one for a Y-block Ford. I was hoping I could make this MSD distributor work, but I don’t want something that’s going to be problematic and unreliable. Without timing control, I could've saved a bunch of money and used a carburetor.

  5. #5

    Default

    When I initially setup my Sniper for timing control, I went by this Holley Video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBSiyeg4XCU
    I only thing I did different was set the static timing for 27°, the average between full advance and for retard under boost. Verified 27° on the balancer and then looking through a hole I drilled in the distributor cap, centered the rotor to the #1 cylinder. This is also with a MSD Pro Billet Distributor. This worked wonderful for several months until I finally got around to pulling the turbo setup off the passenger side so I could run a new shielded wire and installed a Hall-Effect pickup on my crank trigger that I already had on the engine.
    Forgot to add that I did not use the adjustable rotor even though I had a new one. Read about too many problems with them.
    Last edited by djh61187; 02-24-2020 at 09:35 AM.
    Twin Turbo 400 SBC 748 RWHP in 1969 Chevelle.
    Super Sniper EFI, Edelbrock Victor Jr. CNC Ported heads
    Ported 2925 Super Victor Manifold.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Crankshaft View Post
    I would use a HyperSpark, but Holley doesn’t make one for a Y-block Ford. I was hoping I could make this MSD distributor work, but I don’t want something that’s going to be problematic and unreliable. Without timing control, I could've saved a bunch of money and used a carburetor.
    Once setup correctly, the magnetic pickup will be as reliable as the HyperSpark. The way there is just a bit longer, since there's more to setup and more trial & error involved.

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