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Thread: GS100502 Hall-Effect Sensor

  1. #1

    Default GS100502 Hall-Effect Sensor

    Want to confirm; when using the GS100502 Hall Sensor (formerly Cherry, now ZF Electronics) for a crank sensor (Digital Falling), do the Holley ECUs (specifically HP in my case) need a pull-up resistor added to the wiring? Or is this already built into the ECU circuits? Thought I saw somewhere in the forums where a pull-up resistor is not needed, but can't find it now. Thanks, Chris

  2. #2
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    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    • Custom Hall-Effect sensors and/or shielded harnesses:
    1) The ECU already has the pull-up resistor for sinking output (open collector) sensors inside, so don't add anything.
    2) The ECU already has the shield (drain) wire connection/pin grounded inside, so don't ground it at the sensor end.
    Think of the shield wire as an antenna pointing to the sensor; it's only supposed to be grounded at the ECU end.
    http://www.newark.com/pdfs/techartic...haWire/USC.pdf (Shielded Wiring - look for "drain wire" on page 2 & 3.)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....3598#post53598 (Wiring Additional Sensors - Holley HP & Dominator ECUs)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm TB, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks Danny. That's exactly the information I saw earlier!

    Follow-up question. Any advantage to using +12V vs +5V on this sensor? Getting ready to run power to it from B20 (this custom harness came with 5V power to the crank sensor wiring).
    Last edited by fj1289; 02-07-2020 at 03:34 PM.

  4. #4
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    I prefer the clean, regulated +12V from pin B20 (J1B ECU connector). For others reading this, read the LINK in the 3rd paragraph below.

    Crank & Cam Sensor Wiring Tips:
    The 10-pin Ignition Connector has one "Chassis Ground" (loose black wire ground) and two "IPU Grounds" (clean ECU ground).
    Don't use "Chassis Ground" to ground an ignition module (or crank & cam sensors). It's quick & easy to move the ignition
    module ground wire from (cavity) pin D "Chassis Ground" to pin C or G "IPU Ground", where it should be.

    If you don't have the actual Metri-Pack terminal release tool, a "safety pin" will work.
    It just needs to be a stiff wire between .030"-.035" in diameter to release the terminal tab.
    Then reopen (bend) the terminal tab before reinsertion, so it will clip (lock) into the cavity.
    http://www.whiteproducts.com/removal_tools.shtml (T-6 Micro Terminal Release Pick Tool)

    Also, don't use (cavity) pin E "Switched +12V" from the 10-pin Ignition Connector, to power an ignition module
    (or crank & cam sensors), unless you've modified the wiring source to connect from pin B20 - EST 12V Output
    (P1B ECU Connector). This LINK explains why & how to do it.
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...10555rev17.pdf (Holley EFI Wiring Manual, Sections 2.1 "Pin-Outs" & 13.0 "Wiring Appendix")
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm TB, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  5. #5

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    Thanks, B20 it is!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fj1289 View Post
    Thanks, B20 it is!
    You're welcome.

    Quote Originally Posted by fj1289 View Post
    Want to confirm; when using the GS100502 Hall Sensor (formerly Cherry, now ZF Electronics) for a crank sensor...
    If you want the industrial grade stainless steel version, it's Cherry GS100102. I successfully used it for many years in my custom 60-2 crank trigger kit: LINK.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm TB, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

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