Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234
Results 31 to 38 of 38

Thread: Another thread about hooking up the TACH to the Sniper.

  1. #31

    Default

    Awesome car! Interesting about the IGN post being hot with the key off. My '69 Camaro has a BAT terminal that's always hot, but the IGN post is only hot when the key is on. Anyway, I think moving the MSD trigger to the new location will fix you up. I understand which wire you are talking about. I believe they drop to 9V when cranking, but all that wire is doing is triggering the relay so 9V should be plenty. Hope you're making noise soon!
    69 Camaro
    400 SBC, ProCharger D1SC
    1.302 60', 5.95@116.4 on pump gas

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    28

    Default

    So close. I'm getting spark now, confirming the CD ignition box is working. The ECU is staying on, but still no tach. Looks like the dang adapter is my last option. I believe the 8910, as I'm using the white wire for triggering. But I'm just guessing on which adapter here. If you know for sure please chime in. I'm not even sure if the vehicle tach (reproduction now) is voltage or current driven. I know its not the original tach that ran on points as I got it working with a new tach and on an HEI setup.
    Last edited by 1969customS; 02-13-2020 at 11:24 PM.

  3. #33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1969customS View Post
    The ECU is staying on, but still no tach.
    I tried to read most of this thread. Is the tach powered & grounded? Is there a short or cut in the tach/power/ground wires going to the tach? Is the wire and the connection in the Sniper harness still good? I recently had a bad connection in the harness, probably from being moved around a lot. The littlest of things can cause the biggest headaches.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Wish it was something as simple as that. I had the dash torn apart before this upgrade. The tach is new and so is all the wiring to it. The tach was functional before the current upgrade. Grounding solid, no bare or cut wires and has solid power. Not sure how I'd be able to tell if the harness itself is bad unless I hooked it up to an oscilloscope. There's no damage to the harness as far as I can tell. Also, the tach harness is only another $60-$80, and if it doesn't work I'll just return it.

    I'm not quite sure about which adapter though. 8920 looks wrong, but there are two 8910s. Can anyone help with this one?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Well I had high hopes that adding the tach adapter would be the cure all, sadly it has not as of yet. Where I'm at currently:
    -Purchased the 8920 adapter after calling Holley to confirm which adapter would work for me.
    -Tried both configurations in the instructions and with both tach outputs going into the adapter. (Gray from 6EFI CD box & Brown from Sniper harness.)
    -Decided to wire the 12V power of the tach to the relay that is powered during crank (tied in with the ECU and 6EFI CD box).
    -Charging the battery as I tried many different attempts to crank it over.
    So after the battery charges a bit i'll give her a crank and see if it works without the adapter. If no, then I'll try both setups on the adapter again. Updates coming... this will get solved!

  6. #36

    Default

    I may have missed a post or two, but is the car actually running? Seems like if you're still in the cranking phase, you need to get the car running and then worry about the tach. All I've seen references "cranking" and spark, but nothing about running. When you have the car running, assuming that it's not now, borrow or purchase a cheap aftermarket tach and wire it up independently of any factory wiring and see if it works. If it works, you know that you have a tach signal to work with. Then you can hook it up to your tach and begin to troubleshoot. If I've missed the part that you have a properly running car and the last remaining item on the list is the tach, please disregard.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Problem solved! Man I feel dumb on this one. I assumed all this time it was not starting because the tach did not function, but it was an error on my part when setting the timing to 50° BTDC. I must have brain farted and I put it at 50° ATDC. Soon as I fixed that and hooked the tach up to the standard brown wire it fired right up.

    So notes to anyone in the future having issues:
    1. Check your wires (I found three errors while looking).
    2. Double check your distributor setup.
    3. Listen to senior guys on here, go back and start at the beginning. You probably missed/skipped/messed up on something.

    Now I'm having other issues, but I'm going to search the forum to see if I can find answers first. Thanks for all the help everyone.

  8. #38

    Default

    Your experience is very, very common. I've worked on dozens of Sniper installs over the past several years and 90% of the time the issue is user error. I have run into a few failed parts, but most of the time it's user error. People make every possible mistake. Forget to install parts, install parts wrong, don't read the instructions, hook up things wrong, install the wrong software, etc. The list of potential errors is infinite.

    In your case I could tell that you had installed something wrong, but I never guessed that it was the distributor. It sounded like you had a wiring problem, which I guess you did, but the real problem was the distributor. Glad you found it and good luck with the Sniper.

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 234

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us