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Thread: HP Won't Communicate & Fuel Pump Runs Continuously

  1. #1

    Default HP Won't Communicate & Fuel Pump Runs Continuously

    Bottom line - this began after a couple test rides. While trying to adjust some settings and upload to the HP, all the dots would go green, cycle power to the HP, and then, no changes noted. Resync, and the same field would again load, but again the change wouldn’t “take”. Also noticed during these times the fuel pump will not shut off and I don’t get any spark. Tried disconnecting main power from the HP and restarting the laptop. Sometimes this helps, sometimes it doesn’t. Lately, it mostly does not work. Now it mostly wont communicate at all with the HP - times out. Uninstalled and reinstalled Holley V4 build 110 (I think) software. No real change. After several tries finally got the ECU to communicate and reflashed it with V4 build 110. No real changes. Yesterday it communicated once with the HP on the first try after sitting for a while with mail power disconnected.

    It’s been sitting overnight with main power removed. Will try updating the laptop software to V5 build 140 and flash with the same.

    While trying to figure all this out, I noticed my lithium battery may be having an issue with the built-in BMS (battery management system) where the battery has a couple times randomly and suddenly dropped from 13+ volts to approx 2.6 volts. And then will randomly recover. What issues will this cause to the HP? Can this corrupt the firmware? Can this cause more serious damage? I’d hope a low voltage episode wouldn’t brick an ECU - have to think it is not too uncommon in vehicles not driven everyday are those that are that may have an alternator or battery go bad at some point. I'm now using a gel cell AGM battery to eliminate this issue.
    Last edited by fj1289; 02-04-2020 at 12:55 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Reflash to the latest V5 ECU firmware. If you can't communicate with the ECU, contact Holley Tech Service (LINK). It may need to be reflashed at their facility.
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....2193#post72193 (EFI Software/ECU Firmware Problems)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Managed to get the firmware updated from the laptop. Left the main power connector disconnected overnight. I removed the J1 & J2 connectors and ran a terminated wire from the battery through a toggle switch to pin A10. Then it would communicate and allow me to update the firmware.

    Plugged in the J1 & J2 connectors, and had the same problem communicating with the laptop. Went back to the single wire and synced up properly. Tried again with J2 connected, synced up again. Connected J1, won’t sync. I’m guessing on the initial shakedown runs, a wire may have gotten pinched or hot or something. Now I have a way forward. Time to unpin J1 and add things back in one at a time until I find the issue.
    Last edited by fj1289; 02-05-2020 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Grammar

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by fj1289 View Post
    Managed to get the firmware updated from the laptop.
    That's the only way I do it: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...743#post225743 (Related Forum Post)

    Time to unpin J1 and add things back in one at a time until I find the issue.
    That's exactly what I was going to suggest.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  5. #5

    Default

    Well, resolved the issue, just still not sure what it was. First added switched +12V to J1A connector. Next added in sensor ground and sensor +5V. Then added the sensors one by one. Then the CAN Bus wires. Next was the ground and then signal for the crank sensor. Left out the cam signal wire since it's not used. Then the fuel pump out. Then the 4 inputs (3 of the 4 I could test activated and inactive). Finally added in the WBO2. Each step of the way the ECU communicated normally with the laptop. So no smoking gun.

    Then tried cranking (fuel pump fuse removed) to check static timing. Turned over for a couple tries, then lost connection with the ECU and lost spark. Cycled power, wouldn’t communicate, same as before. Unplugged J1A. Again ran a single terminated wire to pin A10 through a toggle switch from the battery and it communicated normally with the laptop. Turned off power, removed the wire and reconnected J1A and communicates normally. Tried cranking again to check static timing and it loses comms again. Repeat the jumper wire trick and it communicates. Then realized how low the battery is getting during cranking (below 10 volts) - it’s about 12°F in the garage and the small motorcycle battery is not happy.

    Replace the small battery with a much larger one (and fresh of the charger) and the problem goes away. I’m able to finish adjusting the static timing settings. Today, a bit warmer, replaced the fuel pump fuse and it starts up first try. Low voltage during cranking evidently comes close to bricking the ECU. Wonder what it's that gets “scrambled” and keeps the fuel pump powered and keeps it from communicating, until Connecting with only the switched power on A10? Oh well, I'll probably never know, but at least know the source of the issue and how to resolve it without having to send the ECU back to Holley. And time to rebuild the battery box to fit a larger battery under the fairing.

  6. #6

    Default

    Yeah, that isn't a big surprise with a cold garage and a small battery. Microprocessor based systems are prone to weird behavior if the voltage drops too far. You really have to keep the volts up above 10 or 11 volts for the system to behave properly.

    I had a race car that lost the tune when the battery died. The tune just disappeared. Everyone tells me that it's impossible for the tune to disappear, but it happened to me. I had to reload the tune from my backup drive.

  7. #7
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    Dec 2009
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    Connecticut
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    Again, if your battery dies due to inactivity, then you need a battery trickle charger (LINK).
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

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