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Thread: Sniper EFI & HyperSpark, now no spark.

  1. #1

    Default Sniper EFI & HyperSpark, now no spark.

    I have been running the EFI 4150 Sniper for about 18 months on my mild 351C.
    This Christmas I purchased the matching HyperSpark (2019 Dec) from Summit Racing.
    The problem is that after setting up the HyperSpark with the Sniper EFI I don't get any spark.
    My setup is as follows: 351C, Holley Sniper EFI 4150, HyperSpark, Crane Cams ignition box.

    I followed the Holley video as well as the provided instructions.
    The HyperSpark is plugged into the green and purple connector and has clean ignition power.
    I wired the white coil output from the EFI to the white input (trigger wire) on the ignition box.

    The Sniper handheld registers a tach signal while cranking so it looks like the HyperSpark is working correctly.
    Have doubled checked the HyperSpark distributor installation.

    Went through the ECU software setup and reset it so that the HyperSpark was registered as well as updated the firmware.
    I also tried bypassing the hi-6 box by using the provided coil driver but that also didn't work, still no spark.

    I reinstall the original HEI distributor, connected the tach out from the box to the Sniper purple wire, connected the white from the HEI to the ignition box and it fires up instantly, so I know the setup works.

    I've gone through a bunch of post I seem to have a very similar issue to this thread: https://forums.holley.com/showthread...Spark-ignition
    Have gone through the recommendations in the thread as well, including clean 12V sources and voltage drops during cranking.

    The ignition box has a red diode that flashes when it registers tach signal which helps with diagnostics, this never flashes when connected to the tach output which indicates that there's no signal on the white coil output wire, is there a way to confirm this?

    The firmware:
    ECU -> Date Code:20160317 ECU Firmware Version: 1.1.17
    Handheld -> Device type: 10, FW Version 1.1.29 Can ID: 51

    I've sent this info to tech support as well, just wondering if anyone has anything else I could check while it's the weekend.
    EDIT: Just to add I found a thread about the white wire being in the wrong slot, have checked it's in F.
    Last edited by chocosmith; 01-19-2020 at 07:00 AM.

  2. #2
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    (Please don't type your posts like you're texting. It takes me a long time to edit it. At least use Spell Check before posting.)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #3

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    Maybe you just forgot to select HyperSpark in the pull down menu on the handheld.

  4. #4

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    An oscilloscope would be the best method to test the signal on the white – points output wire. You could also perform a bypass test with a test light if you suspect the ECU isn't sending the trigger signal. Also make sure there isn't an open or short to ground on the white wire.

  5. #5

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    Hey All. Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I'll continue the debugging this weekend. Bare with me though as the truck is my daily driver, so I need to change the distributor back over as well as setup all the wiring and ECU each time.

    I got a good reply from Holley support in regards to testing the white wire. I've included that below.

    If you suspect a Points Output failure on the Sniper, you can verify easily by the steps you have already taken. If you can verify correct Ignition Type selected, and RPM while cranking, then we should be sending signal out to the CD box. A small basic LED test light can be clipped to 12V and probed at the Sniper Points Output to check for LED flashing while cranking.

    If the CD box can be checked for spark by grounding the white wire and witnessing spark output and LED operation, then the box is working properly.
    I'll keep the thread updated with progress.
    Last edited by chocosmith; 01-17-2020 at 04:45 PM.

  6. #6

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    Quick update. I managed a solid five hours of testing today, which included going over all the wiring, going through the EFI Wizards a bunch more times, including flashing the EFI firmware again, and trying the suggestions from Holley, but unfortunately no success.

    Most of the time I used a screw driver in the coil plug wire for testing as it is very visual and easy to detect. Interestingly, I would occasionally see spark immediately after I stopped cranking the engine, but while the engine was still spinning. This kind of hints towards a voltage issue. The current battery works well and is rated at 810CCA, but just encase I'll try a replacement battery next week from the 4WD.

    I don't think the issue is with the Holley HyperSpark distributor as the EFI correctly reads the RPM during cranking and more towards the EFI not sending out signal down the white out wire.

    After all this I set the wiring back, reinstalled the distributor, reset the EFI for no ignition control and external CD Box, and it fired up immediately.

  7. #7

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    So with a test light connected to the white points output wire showed no signal, the wire could be tested for an open or short to ground with an Ohm meter. You could perform a bypass test KOEO with a test light connected to battery negative, and touch on & off the white wire to simulate the trigger signal from the ECU, and see if the CD box fires the coil.

  8. #8

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    Choco, not sure I understand your test procedure completely. But if you had no spark while cranking, but then saw a spark or two when you stopped cranking, but engine was spinning then maybe your 12V trigger wire is not getting 12V while cranking?
    69 Camaro
    400 SBC, ProCharger D1SC
    1.302 60', 5.95@116.4 on pump gas

  9. #9

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    I got another few hours of testing in this weekend, I struggle to get to a computer during the week days so sorry for the ghosting in between.

    I heard back from Holley support and they recommended checking the harnesses as well as testing the white output similar to what TCM308 mentioned. Unfortunately everything checked out OK and the spark correctly fires when grounding the white wire.

    Greg I agree that it feels like a 12V issue, so I split open the wiring harness and spent a bit of time rerouting writes to the ignition sources for the ECU, CD Ignition and Distributor to be feed directly from the battery. Unfortunately, it didn't work, but I do agree that something seems off while cranking.

    In this video https://youtu.be/LucDPzZOVFM when there is no drain on the 12V source everything works perfectly. Basically I have everything installed then turn over the engine using the starter motor, I then turn off the key, pull out the distributor and turn it using a drill. There is plenty of spark & life. I did it this way as I wanted to do it in a continuous video shot so that people can see no wiring is changed during the two "starts" which is why I start with the distributor in the engine first.

    I swapped the battery to a new 750 CCA battery, I also went back to the 850 CCA battery that was left on the charger all week, and also having both of them in parallel. These are big batteries so should be able to handle the cranking no worries.

    I don't know how to upload the datalog, but it shows that during cranking the voltage drops to around 11.3V at 145 RPM. Anyway I'm out of ideas, open for anything, many thanks all for the help. Cheers, Choco

  10. #10

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    It almost looks like there's a short in the rotor. Did you check the continuity of the rotor itself?

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