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Thread: Dead ECU?

  1. #11

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    I did use a timing light and it matched up to 15° that I set the Sniper at. This engine has been run many times and brought up to operating temp, fan set to come on at 195°. I never noticed the hot header problem before, maybe I missed it or it's new. I'm going to start from the beginning again and see what happens. I'm a bit worried about burning down my engine. I need to be educated, carbs are easy compared to this. Thanks for the inputs guys!

  2. #12

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    Just looking at all my setup and wanted to get your input on my WBO2 sensor. It's 15 inches back from the collector, very short headers.


  3. #13

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    If the sensor clamp mount is on top of the wrap, there's a good chance that you'll get a false reading from slight leakage. Apparently, even a pinhole leak on a welded bung can cause issues. I'd recommend at a minimum to remove the wrap in that section and reclamp. Preferably, see if you can get a bung welded onto the pipe. How much pipe do you have after the sensor? Do you have an H-pipe after the sensor?

  4. #14

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    I have a welded bung, no leaks, the clamp is just there to keep the wrap in place. The wrap came long before the EFI, so I just cut it away to weld the bung.

  5. #15

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    Couldn't tell from the picture, good idea to keep the wrap in place. What do you have downstream?

  6. #16

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    H-pipe approximately two feet behind WBO2 sensor, mufflers and tailpipes, also have cutouts approximately 15" behind WBO2 sensor, but they're closed. I'll get some pics tomorrow.

  7. #17

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    Can you post your Config File?

  8. #18

    Default Pipes Downstream

    1st pic is my cutouts tailpipe, they come out under the running boards just at the outer edge. I can't get this pic turned correctly, sorry:


    Next is the H-pipe:


    Next is WBO2 sensor and cutouts, they're 15 inches apart:


    After the H-pipe, the pipes go to two mufflers and out the back end.
    Last edited by NAVY7797; 01-16-2020 at 09:39 PM.

  9. #19

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    OK guys, I'm back to trying to learn this system. Still haven't downloaded a file. I did change timing from 15° all the way down to 6°, in steps. 283 SBC called for 4° BTDC back in the day, or so I read off a webpage showing 283 - 350 timing settings. After changing the timing it still started up just like before no problem. Headers still got red hot, but took a bit longer. I pulled plugs and they were dry black carbon looking. I have a new WBO2 sensor ready to install, but don't want to just throw parts at the problem. Why is 15° the setting that Holley chooses to set timing at?

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    24,100

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVY7797 View Post
    Why is 15° the setting that Holley chooses to set timing at?
    Because that's the minimum amount of idle timing an engine should use (initial + vacuum advance).
    Excessively retarded ignition timing is the most common cause of glowing exhaust headers. Headers glow red because there’s fuel burning inside.
    The two main reasons are a faulty A/F mixture (most likely too rich) and retarded ignition timing; which doesn’t give the fuel enough time to burn
    inside the combustion chamber. Are you sure the ignition timing synchronization is correct (LINK)?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

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