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Thread: N/A SBF Build Component Suggestions

  1. #1

    Default N/A SBF Build Component Suggestions

    Hi everyone. My first post here. Presently building from a clean slate and would like to hear recommendations for some smaller component selection. Details are as follows:
    N/A SBF 412 CI will make 750 HP.
    Hall-Effect Flying Magnet crank trigger and Price Motorsport cam signal.
    GM 4L80E transmission.
    Dominator throttle body and ECU and prefer to run CNP ignition.
    Holley Digital Dash plus CAN Bus gauges.
    Entire electrical system is a clean slate.
    I’m trying to do this vehicle as correctly as possible in all areas.

    My questions are:
    1) I have D514 Delphi coils, are these sufficient or should I step up to the Holley CNP smart coils?
    2) Planning on using either the MSD Super Conductor or Holley EFI plug wires, any real preferences or experiences?
    3) Should I buy a dual terminal type battery to keep a clean power supply? I see mention of this in a Holley training video.
    4) What are the best brand diode protected relays to use? Obviously I’m not keen on damaging my ECU with flyback.
    I’m assuming the Dominator does have some internal protections, but a quality diode type really is still strongly suggested?
    Thanks very much everyone, looking forward to hearing your suggestions. Steve
    Last edited by FalconSteve; 01-07-2020 at 12:49 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you Danny. I already have Holley Hall-Effect crank and Price Motorsport cam sensors. The upgrade to the Holley smart coils in the link is noted, but is it necessary?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FalconSteve View Post
    The upgrade to the Holley smart coils in the link is noted, but is it necessary?
    A N/A engine should be fine with the Delphi D514 CNP coils.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

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    Thanks Danny, I appreciate your assistance. From what I’ve read the MSD Super Conductor wires work well? Diode protected relays are plentiful, are there any Brands of a superior quality that anyone has used?
    Last edited by FalconSteve; 01-07-2020 at 02:16 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Location
    Connecticut
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    25,541

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    You're welcome.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7

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    Focus on your intake/TB selection. SBFs do not do well with carb intakes converted to EFI I find. Go with an EFI specific intake. Holley Hi-Ram or TFS Box-R are good choices. They usually have good cylinder to cylinder balance compared to a Super Victor and are much easier to tune. I'd prefer the MSD 85061 cam sync plug. It's a very reliable robust unit and is plug & play with Holley. If you decide the Super Victor I prefer a 1:1 TB and be able to open the rear two for idle control. Also, a good spacer helps. Otherwise, you'll have a terrible time with the back two fouling at idle.

    1 Pulse/Fire Flying Magnet crank triggers also work well and tend to be more reliable than 36-1 wheels, but they do lose a lot of resolution. Some people prefer a 12-1 Flying Magnet setup like Hyperaktive or have the magnets built into the balancer. Innovators West and ATI can do this for you.

    For plug wires, I recommend FireCore50 wires and nothing else.

    Dual terminal batteries are great choices for Holley EFI installs. Keep the Holley on its own dedicated terminals. Run everything else off of the other set.

    What do you plan on running the relays with? The Holley EFI units have some flyback protection, they can even PWM small inductive loads directly with no flyback protection. If you're doing a PWM fuel pump, I suggest the Crydom D1D40.

    The other major issue you need to pay attention to is grounds (NOT just "having lots") and the ignition coil wire harnesses. They need to be grounded with the shortest path possible to each head.

  8. #8

    Default

    Thank you for your reply and info.
    Unfortunately, the intakes you mentioned won't work with my heads. I’m running heavily modified CHI Cleveland style heads, they flow close to 400 CFM, the intake is an older Ford racing unit, which is heavily modified to suit these heads. It’s been ported and flow matched and provides a generous plenum and good distribution characteristics. Similar combos have seen the Dyno with very good mixture distribution and performance at the track.

    I’ll definitely look into FireCore50. I tried a few days ago and their website was down. I'll need a custom set due to relocated coils and the fact I’m over here in Australia, it'd be easier to cut my own to length but I’m not sure if FireCore50 offers that option. I’ll make contact and find out.

    I’ve moved on with the setup since my original post. I’m using a lower profile DIN style battery for clearance, sadly they don’t do these in dual terminals, but I’ll be wiring the ECU directly to the terminals. Good earths...yep understood, I’ll run earth cable from battery to block, heads to block, block to chassis and tatters to chassis. The relocated coils did pose me with concerning over earthing, I’ll try and run the earths as directly as possible to the heads in a generous gauge, as well as ample power supply.

    I’ll take a look at the Holley/MSD cam sync. As it works out my Price motorsports unit was ordered for another block with a smaller diameter shaft, some Australian Cleveland’s had this, I’m now running an aftermarket Cleveland block with big bores, it has the standard shaft size so the Holley unit will work. That being said I’m sunning a Bullet custom solid roller and external oil pump, the cam sync is well supported by internal bearings so it’s likely that support shaft size isn’t really an issue given the minimal loads on it.

    The ECU controlled relays will be for the basic ancillaries such as fuel pumps and cooling fans, I’m running dual Walbro pumps, likely staged and neither pumps & fans will be PWM, nothing much beyond that. I’ll use ground switching, I’m assuming a quality diode protected relay is the best option? Thanks again for your reply and info, much appreciated.
    Last edited by FalconSteve; 01-22-2020 at 03:34 PM.

  9. #9

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    Yes, any quality relay will work, but I'm not sure diode suppression is really needed.

  10. #10

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    A CHI intake manifold should work well.

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