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Thread: Mallory HyFire 6AL Tach Sweep

  1. #1

    Default Mallory HyFire 6AL Tach Sweep

    I have been reading through all of the instructions to get as familiar with the install as I can before I start this project and I noticed a highlighted comment that if your CD box does a tach sweep that it needs to be disabled or there is a chance it could flood the Sniper. I have a Mallory HyFire 6AL model 6853M. Every time you turn the key on the tach does a sweep of the entire RPM range from 0 to 8000 and then returns. I have looked everywhere for the procedure to turn this off and I cannot find it anywhere. I found the one for the MSD where you ground the gray tach wire with the key on for 5 seconds, not to exceed 10 seconds, and that toggles between off and on, but nothing on the Mallory. Does anyone know how to turn this off or if it's even possible to turn it off?

    Also, should you run the tach off of the tach wire on the CD box or the wire on the Sniper EFI? Thanks again for the help, Dale

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale G View Post
    I have a Mallory HyFire 6AL model 6853M. Every time you turn the key on the tach does a sweep of the entire RPM range from 0 to 8000 and then returns.
    If the Sniper EFI indicates RPM during this momentary tach sweep period (either on the 3.5" TSLCD or EFI software's Data Monitor), then it must be disabled. If it can't be disabled, then it can't be used for ECU timing control.
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...400#post104400 (Rev Limiter Verification Feature Disabled)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

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    OK, I need to wait until I get the unit installed to check and verify if the RPM on the Sniper screen is showing a RPM sweep when the key is turned on. If it does make the Sniper do a RPM sweep, do you have any idea how to turn it off with the Mallory 6AL? Is it the same procedure as the MSD 6AL? Thanks, Dale

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale G View Post
    If it does make the Sniper do a RPM sweep, do you have any idea how to turn it off with the Mallory 6AL?
    No. If it's not in the Mallory 6853M HyFire 6AL instruction manual, then you may not be able to disable it (especially if it's an older model).

    Is it the same procedure as the MSD 6AL?
    No.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

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    I've looked all through the manual and online and have found nothing that says whether or not this unit does an RPM sweep. The unit is probably 4 years old, maybe a little more. The sweep might not be the CD box, but it may be the tach. The tach is an aftermarket tach that is made to look like an original that came with rally gauges. They are sold by AMES to upgrade your dash with more modern technology while still looking stock. I've found a few people on the Pontiac forum stating their tachs are doing the sweep when they turn the key on, and they are running stock ignition systems. So this might be a characteristic of the tach. I'll do as you recommended and test it once I get the unit installed and before I start it. I'm wondering if I set the dip switches to "NONE" for the RPM limiter if that would turn off the sweep? I might try that tomorrow.

    I guess if it's the Mallory CD box doing it then there's no other option than to buy the HyperSpark box, which I didn't want to do because this unit has only been in the car for 800 miles, it's still new. Thanks again, Dale

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    You're welcome. At least you know what to look for and what to avoid.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7

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    One other question that's related. Should the tach be wired to the CD box tach wire or the Sniper EFI tach wire? Thanks, Dale

  8. #8
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    The dark brown wire is the Tach Output: http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf (Holley Sniper EFI Instruction Manual - "ECU Wiring Overview", Page 16 & "10 Pin Connector", Page 17)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  9. #9

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    Yup, I know that, but there are two choices for wiring the tach. The Mallory ignition has a yellow wire for the tach, which is currently running the tach with my current setup, and the Sniper EFI has a brown wire that can run the tach. I was wondering which would be the best way to wire it, since there are two choices that can be used, or does it really not matter?

    As always, thanks for the help and your expert advice. Dale

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