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Thread: Bad IAC valve?

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    Is the Holley dual sync distributor looking for the cam signal before it will let the engine start?
    ??? I installed the Dual Sync per directions from Holley installation guides. How would I tell if it's doing that?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,734

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    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    Is the Holley dual sync distributor looking for the cam signal before it will let the engine start?
    Not if he programmed the Cam Sensor as "Not Used".
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Cabral View Post
    Not if he programmed the Cam Sensor as "Not Used".
    I'm using latest version of Sniper EFI firmware and software. Using Holley Dual Sync Distributor with HyperSpark Coil and HyperSpark CDI module. My options for Ignition Type did not include "Custom". I selected:
    Ignition Type .............. ― Holley Dual Sync
    Inductive Delay ........... ― 100.0 usec (default)
    Ignition Reference Angle― 50° (default)
    Dwell Time .................. ― 2.0 msec (default)
    Following instructions for distributor and ignition setup none of these needed to be changed.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,734

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    Yeah, I forgot we're in the Sniper EFI forum.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshT View Post
    Yep, it was a bad valve. Moparmatty thanks for the part numbers. The first one wasn't available locally on short notice. I'd read a snippet or two online saying the second application would work as well, but good to see it here as well. Seems the only difference is the angle at which the plug is clocked, plenty of slack in the wire to connect it. Stuck new valve in and works perfectly, old valve seems to have been stuck fully extended.
    You're welcome.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshT View Post
    After doing some work on the truck recently that affected idle and tuning, I started having trouble with getting idle RPM dialed back in. Might have had an idle RPM issue before, hadn't driven it much in a bit and wasn't paying much attention to IAC % or RPM when I did. After chasing the problem for a bit I noticed that the IAC didn't see to be working right.

    I've read that when the Sniper is turned on one of the first things that happens is that the IAC cycles then return to Parked Position for engine temperature. So when ignition switch is turned on, the IAC motor should move. Am I understanding this correct?

    When the key is turned on my IAC does nothing. I didn't hear it so I grabbed a flashlight and watched it while dad switched on the truck. It didn't budge. So am I correct in thinking that I might have a bad IAC valve?
    Yep, had the same. In fact, this Sniper unit has been a total nightmare for me fitted ran a while did some 120 miles then started playing up, lost all timing control in the ECU so had to refit my old magnetic distributor, WBO2 failed fitted correctly, now the IAC has failed. In fact, on removal came out in bits no wonder that didn't work right! Latest is lost the pointer on the RPM scale and the purple CTS line on fuel enrichment/coolant scale has decided to leave the party all on the handheld.
    Numerous emails to Holley not one reply here, so it's a giant paperweight in the garage. Carb is back on totally disappointed no after sales at all for us here in the UK original supplier just past it back to Holley. So for me it's been a total failure. Although I like the concept and the design just not anywhere near as reliable as I expected but there you go J. Have to say though Chris at EFISystemPro great guy helped me out at lot on specific areas, and thanks for that top man in my book, top marks. My Cobra is back on the Carb and at least I won't need towing back every session!

  7. #17

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    Mine hasn't been playing up, it was working fine, then out of the blue the IAC failed. Could happen on anything at any time. I've had IAC valve fail out of the blue more than once on then same factory EFI vehicle. Shit happens and it can get down right frustrating.

    Can't speak for everybody, but quite possibly my biggest issue is not having time to devote to learning the system. Only get to do bits here and there so when something does go wrong or not quite right, it feels like it takes a lot longer than it really does to solve the issue.

    Chris is a good guy, quite possibly too good of a guy. I bought my system through him and have gone to him for help a few times, but he's a busy guy and I hate to bother him with every little thing, especially when its something anyone with experience could answer. Get help where you can, but his willingness (over-eagerness) to help non customers is what is kinda hurting his business right now (not that he'd admit it). I think he'll keep on helping people like that, but don't be surprised if it starts coming at a charge in the near future.

    Got new IAC installed and it solved that issue. Also got timing control setup and running. Had to give it a lot more initial timing than expected (balancer is correct), but truck is running better than ever. Still got a lot more tweaking and tuning to do, but I'm happy for now.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Moparmatty View Post
    Chrysler PN# 53032067AB or 53030657AD will work.
    Just as a FYI, my cross-references (and this Sticky page here) show:
    Mopar 53032067AB = Holley 543-105 = Standard AC416 = Delphi CV10159
    and
    Mopar 53030657AD = Delphi CV10155
    and several online sources show the two Mopar numbers to be interchangeable.
    If anybody can't find one with those numbers, or if you want to shop by vehicle, look up a 200-2002 Dodge Ram 2500 with the V10 engine.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshT View Post
    I hate using this forum on my cellphone. Typed this reply once, tried to edit it and the site thought I clicked delete. I clicked on the message to edit it, not delete damned it. Rant over...

    As I said above "I tried to copy old timing parameters as much as possible". I got idle, cruise & WOT timing, but Cranking Timing was the one I couldn't get. On Ford Duraspark II system the Cranking Timing isn't base timing as suggested by some places (EFISyetemPro.com), but instead is a timing retard built into the Duraspark module which I've read to be about 6°. In hindsight I probably could have gotten it with a bit of wiring trickery, but didn't think about that until after it was removed. Not going to reinstall now just for that.

    Since I didn't get the Cranking Timing I'm starting at idle timing (12°) and working back to find where it best cranks and starts. Currently set at 11.2° any higher and it starts kicking back, going lower doesn't seem to make an improvement. At all settings it takes cranking over for a bit before it starts and runs, before with the Duraspark II it started right up as soon as I hit the key. Once it starts it runs fine, just takes longer getting it to start.

    EDIT: Of course I'm also looking at your reply in "Hard time tuning cold start idle." Wandering if The Cranking Fuel (lb/hr) & IAC Parked Position might need to be adjusted instead. I'll do the little test you mentioned in the link next time I'm at the truck.
    Not sure if it's related, but I'll post it here for any future reference. I had the Duraspark II in my Jeep Grand Wagoneer (AMC 360 V8). Went to the Sniper & MSD, but have not yet setup a distributor for Sniper controlled timing. I'm assuming it may be due to the loss of the cranking retard built into the Duraspark II, but keeping timing essentially the same as before. I did notice that I went from an instant start to about a 5 second cranking delay before it lights. Perfect idle, and so much better off-idle and cruise than ever before, but it does definitely require a slightly longer crank than before the conversion. Hot (even slightly warm) starts are instant.

    Of course, there's also the gigantic variable of having gone from carb to TBI. It may be a simple issue related to the priming shot and/or Cranking fuel, but by Neptune's beard I'm not touching it. Any of it. I don't even want to think about timing control. It starts and runs that well. I'll never own another carbureted vehicle again.

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