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Thread: 2.3L Turbo CNP?

  1. #11

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    OK so I double checked my cam position sensor factory pin-outs with the nice guys at Turbo Ford. I rewired the sensor according to information I was told. I verified on both connectors that I have correct pins in the right place. I put it back together and I still have no RPM. Could my crank sensor not be centered and still read, or does it need to be directly centered for the sensor to read the degree wheel? I even put the red with white stripe wire directly to the positive battery cable and it made no change. I'm completely at a loss at this point.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    27,006

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsanders View Post
    Could my crank sensor not be centered and still read, or does it need to be directly centered for the sensor to read the degree wheel?
    I'd like to see a picture of the crank trigger installation.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #13

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    I'm trying to upload, but not able to from my phone. I'll try to with my laptop if I can get the option after pulling ut from my phone.also my firing order is normally 1,3,4,2. I'm 160° BTDC with my cam sync as I was told for the 4 cylinder. Would my firing order change to 4,2,1,3? I have it as 1,3,4,2 in the computer and wonder if that will cause a crank RPM signal issue as well? Will continue to get the picture up also.

  4. #14

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's what I have setup for now, still looking for options for the crank sensor mount with the Pyro Pete trigger kit. For some reason it has posted this upside-down. I don't know why.

    UPDATE: I went out and turned the sensor 1/4 turn at a time and I now have it saying syncing when it's cranking. Getting closer.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Well, what's the current sensor air gap?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  6. #16

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    I'll be resetting it because I was messing around with it and need to reset it to .030" to start again. But I found out these sensors only have a strip in the sensor that's 5the magnet picking up the wheel. I believe I just had a bad luck of getting it straight up and down and not enough sideways to get it.

  7. #17
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    Location
    Connecticut
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    Of course the crank sensor must be centered on the trigger wheel.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  8. #18

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    https://youtu.be/Sn97YhkuugA
    This is what I was referring to when I was looking into different stuff and wondered. Motion Raceworks has some great info on here that would help this issue as well.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
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    Again, why would you not install the crank sensor CENTERED on the trigger wheel?
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  10. #20

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    I was as centered as I could get without the sensor hitting my crank pulley. There is not enough room allowed in the space I'm given.

    I was referring to the video as a reference, as some sensors are not directly centered where the magnet is put inside the sensor. As an added troubleshooting, that you can turn the sensor 1/4 turn so the magnet is a bigger area for it to be picked up. Just trying to help with information I thought could've been useful.

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