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Thread: 2.3L Turbo CNP?

  1. #1

    Default 2.3L Turbo CNP?

    I was going to do a TFI setup, but there's no cam sensor in the 2.3L distributor, so ditch that. I have a 558-102 harness that I moved cylinders 2 & 4 to the odd connectors, so I'd have the 1, 2, 3, 4 cylinders on odd side. I wire the Ford TPS sensor to the harness so I can still use the factory Ford TPS. I wired the 3 bar MAP sensor connector. I'm using LS coils & harness. I'm getting a cam sync and connector for the cam sync. I'll wire in from a Ranger with 2.3L. Will the Holley 554-124 crank sensor work with a 36-1 crank trigger? Or can I use a PyroPete crank trigger kit comes with everything, but the crank sensor, it's a 2-wire? On a side note, I noticed the there's a ground that goes to the cylinder head. I'd still ground that to the cylinder head like I would if it were on the LS1 for the ground on the coils? Thanks for the help in advance. Brent

    I do have a friend helping me with this over the internet. I'm not sure if he's a member or not. On the crank sensor 554-124, is this the correct one I'd need on a 36-1 crank trigger? I do believe it's steel. I know the kit PyroPete offers is a steel crank trigger. It comes with a 2-wire, but I don't think it'll work due to it being a 2-wire crank sensor.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsanders View Post
    On the crank sensor 554-124, is this the correct one I'd need on a 36-1 crank trigger?
    Yes, use a Hall-Effect geartooth sensor.

    I do believe it's steel. I know the kit PyroPete offers is a steel crank trigger.
    The sensor is stainless steel. Yes, all missing teeth type crank triggers are ferrous steel.

    It comes with a 2-wire, but I don't think it'll work due to it being a 2-wire crank sensor.
    Yes, use 3-wire Hall-Effect crank & cam sensors, not VR Magnetic sensors.

    In my opinion, if a Holley EFI user isn't familiar with the Magnetic Ignition Type "Minimum Signal Voltage" &
    "Filtering" parameters (in System Parameters/Custom Ignition Parameters), then they have no business using
    VR/magnetic pickup type crank & cam sensors. This is the problem with using magnetic pickup type sensors,
    there's more tuning work/adjustment involved. Hall-Effect sensors are "set & forget", very easy to use.

    The more robust Hall-Effect sensors are preferred because they're not susceptible to EMI/RFI interference/noise,
    and their digital square-wave signal strength is consistent, regardless of RPM (unlike the VR magnetic sine-wave).
    Also, the VR magnetic pickup signal is weaker at cranking speeds.

    Another problem with using VR Magnetic sensors, is there's more tuning work. Hall-Effect is "set & forget".
    The VR Magnetic Sensor Type "Filtering" & "Minimum Signal Voltage" parameters need to be programmed.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10676rev.pdf (Magnetic Crank/Cam Input Filtering Parameters, Page 2)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....4450#post54450 (Example: Wrong Magnetic Parameters, Post #25)

    Hall-Effect: 3-wire, square wave signal (digital), pulse generation
    VR Magnetic: 2-wire, sine wave signal (inductive), voltage generation
    http://www.electronicproducts.com/El...g_for_you.aspx (Hall-Effect vs VR Magnetic)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  3. #3

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    Thank you Danny for the quick reply! I'll keep you guys posted with my progress.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    You're welcome.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  5. #5

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    UPDATE: So I used the LS1 harness, moved even number 2 & 4 to the odd side plug. I have the crank sensor 554-124 as we talked about. Set gap to .035", but I'm gonna reset it to .030". Used cam sync 680-103 for the 2.3L. I have 12 volts to both sensors. I was told to set TDC then roll engine back 160° then install my cam sync. I have no RPM signal and I'm getting confused to why I do not have spark. Using LSx coils that are plug & play for the harness. Injectors prime, but does not show pressure. Might be because I still have the Schrader valve in. But biggest issue I'm having is no spark.

  6. #6
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    No RPM signal is why there's no spark. Troubleshoot why you have no RPM signal.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  7. #7

    Default

    I'll report back tomorrow, heading out to the garage to try again. Like I said, I'll be putting the crank sensor to .030". I'm hoping this will take care of it, LOL. I should be home free after this is figured out.

  8. #8

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    Set crank sensor to .025" and checked for RPM. I still had no RPM. So I checked the wiring, somehow I got A & C mixed up when I swapped the connector for the Hall-Effect. Performed a test, I still have no cranking RPM. I'm gonna look for a factory pin-out for the cam sync and make sure I have the right wires in the right spots for the cam sensor.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Record a System Log to verify crank & cam sensor signals. Check mark the "RPM", "Crank" & "Cam" channels. Look for a uniform,
    uninterrupted crank or cam sensor signal pattern. The crank or cam sensor signal should never flatline (no pulse) or indicate an
    RPM "Error" anywhere. Also, fully charge the battery and ensure the engine is cranking fast enough, at least 100+ RPM. Another
    common issue, is trying to analyze a compressed view of a long System Log. Zoom In for detail - click & hold at one point of the
    datalog, and drag & release to another point nearby. It's best to record short System Logs/Datalogs that capture the problem.

    TPS Autoset? Is the battery fully charged? Switched +12V red/white wire is powered in the "Run" and "Crank" key positions?
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....5760#post45760 (Scroll down to "Typical No-Start Checks".)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS T/W 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 12:1 C/R, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm T/B, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH pump, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

  10. #10

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    TPS Autoset was done, I notice the switched volts I have the dash and this wire it shuts off for a second then gets power when cranking. But does monetarily shut them off. I'll double check everything else and report back.

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