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Thread: New HyperSpark - No Start

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    6

    Default New HyperSpark - No Start

    Many thanks to this forum. I've used it extensively, and with great success, for troubleshooting and tuning my Sniper, but I'm finally against a wall. I ran Sniper (p/n 550-511) for about a year and had it running pretty good without timing control, but not great. Next obvious step was to setup HyperSpark distributor, coil, and ignition box trio. Also upgraded to MSD Super Conductor spark plug wires. I changed ignition type to HyperSpark from coil (-), and setup distributor according to directions. I initially tried to start, unsuccessfully, on original Global File I'd been using for the past several months. Took a datalog and found RFI that showed two battery signals. I replaced 10SI 63A alternator with a CS130 105A and replaced all wiring and fusible links with new, which seems to have eliminated the RFI.

    Also have tried the following:
    Verified correct wiring.
    Verified charge on Optima yellow top that I've charged using Optima charger/maintainer.
    Reinstall software on my PC and reload Global File to ECU.
    Reinstall firmware on handheld (I'm mostly using CAN -Dongle and laptop anyway).
    Replaced spark plugs.

    On a side note: When I try unsuccessfully to start it acts like a flooded carburetor and I can smell a lot of fuel. If I unplug the fuel pump relay it will start & run until it runs out of fuel. I hope this is a useful way to load a datalog and GF to this site. Thanks for any help you all may be able to provide. Mick
    Stock Cam_2.zip Sniper Log 20191026-155632.zip Sniper Log 20191026-155654.zip
    Last edited by mickeykreg; 10-27-2019 at 01:39 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,092

    Default

    Check your Ignition Parameters. If there's no RPM signal when cranking, troubleshoot the HyperSpark Hall-Effect sensor.
    3-wire Hall-Effect sensor: http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint3_1.pdf (Understanding/Troubleshooting Hall-Effect Sensors - "Troubleshooting", Page 2)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    The datalog shows an RPM signal. In fact, according to the datalog it cranks. Mickey, are you saying it cranks then stumbles and shuts off? The datalog ends almost immediately after it cranks, so is it dying then?
    69 Camaro
    400 SBC, ProCharger D1SC

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Yes, RPM signal is present & consistent, viewed either on handheld or PC software. It never does start. It acts like it wants to, but quits as soon as I let off the ignition, terminating the datalog.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,092

    Default

    Ensure the Sniper switched +12V pink wire is powered in the "run" & "cranking" key positions.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Yes, verified. Also, unchanged from prior to HyperSpark installation.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    399

    Default

    You said you installed the full HyperSpark setup and everything ran fine before this, which leads me to believe the problem is with the wiring on the HyperSpark ignition setup. The first place to check is the orange & orange/brown wire on the CD box. Those wires need to be separate and far away from everything else, as those wires pulse and cause lots of problems.
    1964 Chevy Nova, 383 Stroker, AFR 210 Heads, Ford 9inch w/TrueTrac/3.90 Gears, Powerglide Transmission. www.SoCalStreetCars.com

  8. #8

    Default

    In the datalog, the RPM gets up around 7-800 momentarily so that tells me it's "hitting" at least a little? Your starter will not spin it that fast. Have you used the Static Timing feature on the handheld to sync the timing with the ECU? You can put a light on it while cranking over the engine to verify. After the timing is synced have you tried feathering the pedal while cranking?
    69 Camaro
    400 SBC, ProCharger D1SC

  9. #9

    Default

    My guess is that your timing is way off, but it obviously could be something else. Perhaps you messed up the firing order when you changed distributors or move the wires over one spot or something like that. Basically, you need to stop assuming that everything is correct and assume that everything is wrong, unless you verify that it is correct.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Salt Lake City
    Posts
    6

    Default

    I'm sure I've got firing order and plug wires correct, but I agree with your premise. Not 100% sure this is correct now, but here's how I setup the distributor:
    1) Set #1 piston to TDC by turning harmonic balancer until 0° mark on HB lined up with 0° mark on timing tab on compression stroke.
    2) Placed distributor with rotor pointing at #1 cylinder (probably unnecessary, but just habit).
    3) Rotated distributor body until clear plastic cap fit on. Bolted it down, and made a black sharpie mark on the housing where the provision is at the slot in timing cap.
    4) Installed plug wires beginning with #1 at black mark on housing.
    5) Disabled idle spark in IAC settings. Unplugged fuel pump relay, had a helper crank the engine over while I checked timing. Verified at 15°.

    I have not tried feathering the TPS while trying to start.
    Brown and Orange/Brown wires are routed shortest distance possible and follow the firewall.
    Click image for larger version. 

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