UPDATE: Passenger side coil harness was backwards, jumbling up the firing order. I found TDC and retarded the spark 84° to line up. I put the 15° of crank advance in and it tried to run, but would not stay running. Cranks like it wants to idle. Very close.
No Start '55 Chevy
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Changed cam sensor to NONE and ran it Bank-To-Bank. It ran, would not stay running, but it ran. I sent my DL file off to tech. I'm curious what the next step is to get my cam timing working. I know the sensor is OK and the harness too. I'd attach my DL file, but the site won't let me. At least I'm inching forward!
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Unfortunately, not much. We verified all coil/injectors. Checks out. Next put into Digital Falling for cam profile and it runs real rough and still backfires. ECU is me that my timing should be retarded by 84° to line up properly. We're going to take a long hard look at the reluctor on the crank to make sure it’s clocked properly, even though it was never taken off. If we spin the engine by hand slowly key-on, I can see cam & crank signals, and they look correct. Telling me that my timing should be retarded by 84° to line up properly. We're going to take a long hard look at the reluctor on the crank to make sure it’s clocked properly, even though it was never taken off. If we spin the engine by hand slowly key-on, I can see cam & crank signals, and they look correct. TDC #1 rise TDC #6 fall. This was on the ECU LEDs. I took a datalog of the engine running poorly and sent it off to Holley Tech.
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Saddening. ECU Checks out and ran a test engine just fine. It's being shipped back to me as we speak and I'll receive it a week from today. I have five plans of Attack:
Compression test: Yields 210-240 psi per cylinder. This tells me that the cam is clocked OK and we can see the cam change its LED status at TDC from low to high and back again.
Pin-out Holley harness to ECU connector. This is my next big suspect.
Replace cam and crank sensors again.
Drop pan and visual crank reluctor clocking. I used a piece of spring steel to feel 8mm reluctor hole at TDC, but could not see it.
Pull timing cover, last resort as it looks like cam is in correctly.
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Not yet! Harness pins out fine with continuity test. My reluctor on crank is A-OK. Just bought new sensors for cam and crank. Something is telling me my timing is off by 84°, but that figure seems to be very wrong. I'll try new sensors tomorrow. Do you have similar timing issues? Does anybody know the correct air gap between the reluctor wheel on the crank and the crank sensor? Currently I’m at .042".
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The sensor gap is .030" or slightly less.
https://forums.holley.com/showthread...0283#post90283 (Related Forum Post)May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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Originally posted by ac delco View PostI need to move it .018" closer.
Thanks for the specification, Danny.May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
'92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.
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