Hays 3/4 Race Twister TCC

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  • gcp_mn
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2015
    • 16

    Hays 3/4 Race Twister TCC

    I just finished rebuilding a 4L60E with a Hays 3/4 Twister torque converter for my Chevelle. Other than lockup the transmission works great.

    I did not remove the pan yet, but I did connect a switch to enable/disable the TCC. The switch also has a LED, which I ran in series with the TCC solenoid. When the transmission shifts into 4th gear, the LED lights, so I know the pressure switch is working and current is flowing through the solenoid.

    Unfortunately, I don't notice anything when switching the TCC circuit on/off while cruising in 4th gear. I'm assuming there would be a slight change in RPM when the clutch engages/disengages. Other than pulling the torque converter, is there anything else I can look for in the valve body or the valve under the solenoid?
    Click image for larger version

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  • Gaz64
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 2243

    #2
    I'd assume a 3/4 race torque converter doesn't have a TCC inside the converter, since the lockup clutch is not designed for high torque. Gary
    Regards, Gary

    Comment

    • Danny Cabral
      Administrator
      • Dec 2009
      • 35959

      #3
      I was thinking the same thing.
      May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
      '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385"/6.3L SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, Eagle 3.470" forged steel crankshaft & H-beam rods, Wiseco 4.200" forged pistons, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 CNC Comp Ported heads, 12:1 compression ratio, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA H/R camshaft, Trick Flow R-Series FTI Comp Ported intake, BBK 80mm throttle body, Holley Dominator MPFI & DIS, Holley 36-1 crank trigger, MSD 1x cam sync, PA PMGR starter, PA 200A 3G alternator, Optima 34/78 Red battery, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, R134a A/C, Spal Dual 12" HP 3168 CFM fans, Frostbite 3-core aluminum radiator, Pypes SS dual 2.5" exhaust, SS off-road X-pipe, SS shorty headers, OEM smog pump converted vacuum pump, Earl's -6AN fuel system plumbing, Walbro 255 LPH in-tank pump & Pro-M -6AN hanger, S&W subframe connectors, BMR upper & lower torque box reinforcements, highly modified Ford 4R70W transmission, FTI 9.5"/3000 stall/triple disc TCC, B&M Hammer shifter, Stifflers trans crossmember & driveshaft safety loop, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.73 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 M/T Street Comp tires.

      Comment

      • gcp_mn
        Junior Member
        • Dec 2015
        • 16

        #4
        HAYS TWISTER 3/4 RACE TORQUE CONVERTER, 1984-91 GM 700R4
        9.6" diameter torque converter with lockup 30 spline input, 10-3/4" bolt pattern, 3200-3600 RPM stall. PART# 97-1E32Q

        Comment

        • Gaz64
          Senior Member
          • Jan 2010
          • 2243

          #5
          Originally posted by gcp_mn View Post
          I did not remove the pan yet, but I did connect a switch to enable/disable the TCC. The switch also has a LED, which I ran in series with the TCC solenoid. When the transmission shifts into 4th gear, the LED lights, so I know the pressure switch is working and current is flowing through the solenoid.
          I would think the TCC solenoid would not operate in SERIES with an LED. The solenoid should be in parallel with the LED. Gary
          Regards, Gary

          Comment

          • gcp_mn
            Junior Member
            • Dec 2015
            • 16

            #6
            Originally, the TCC wiring went through just the brake switch. I couldn't tell if it was working, so I added the manual switch with the LED. I wired the LED in series to check if the solenoid and pressure switch were working and verify if the wiring was all connected, without having to remove the pan.

            Comment

            • Gaz64
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2010
              • 2243

              #7
              I think a solenoid will not operate in series with an LED.
              If the switch you have has an LED as part of the switch, the LED is in parallel, which is correct.
              If you made this setup, and the LED IS in series, change the circuit to parallel. Gary
              Regards, Gary

              Comment

              • gcp_mn
                Junior Member
                • Dec 2015
                • 16

                #8
                I apologize for the confusion, the switch LED was only used in series to check the continuity of the circuit. I was trying to do as much troubleshooting without having to drop the pan.

                I'm waiting to hear back from Holley to confirm whether or not the torque converter has a clutch in it. If it does then I'll have to drop the pan to see if the solenoid is working and see if the TCC valve in the pump might be stuck. If everything looks good there, my next step would be to pull the transmission and see if the o-ring on the input shaft is damaged.

                Comment

                • Gaz64
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2010
                  • 2243

                  #9
                  I like your thinking on using the LED for confirming the circuit. You're on the right path. I've seen o-rings cause similar symptoms. Gary
                  Regards, Gary

                  Comment

                  • gcp_mn
                    Junior Member
                    • Dec 2015
                    • 16

                    #10
                    I still have not heard back from Holley. Maybe I should've gotten the TCI torque converter? Customer service would be the same.

                    Comment

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