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Thread: Ditching TFI for Holley Dual Sync Distributor

  1. #1

    Default Ditching TFI for Holley Dual Sync Distributor

    Working on my 418W with Terminator. After over 30K trouble-free miles on my setup, the car has started cutting out and eventually dying on the side of the road. Some days I can drive for hours before the trouble starts, and other days the trouble starts a few miles from home. I've been running a Summit Racing TFI distributor with the module mounted right on the distributor. When the running issue started, I immediately suspected a heat soaked module issue. I bought a new Motorcraft gray module for manual transmission and relocated it on a heat sink behind the grill on the hood latch bracket. This did not resolve the problem as the cutting out and eventually dying has persisted. I've always managed to get the car home by pulling over and either just sitting there for a while or by swapping the module out for a spare. Needless to say, I'm tired of driving it with this dangerous condition. I suspect maybe the pickup coil in the distributor may be a possible culprit but after reading all the material online about the problems with TFI I'd like to move on from it. Can I run the Holley EFI 565-201 Dual Sync Distributor without a CDI box? Any helpful suggestions are welcome, thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,066

    Default

    No, the Holley EFI Dual Sync Distributor requires a CD ignition box to fire the coil. I always recommend using a CD ignition box with distributor type ignition systems. Here's why: LINK.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #3

    Default

    Well, the problem had nothing to do with the TFI after all. I had spliced in a new ignition pigtail in the spring and apparently I didn't push the connector all the way into the back of the ignition switch ('69 Mustang). I dragged my feet moving on from my blacked out original handheld, but finally broke down and upgraded to the 3.5" TSLCD; a very sweet unit. I also went ahead and also upgraded the firmware/software from V3 to V5. Some of the settings were less than ideal, dialed the tune back in and she's running perfectly. This forum is an amazing resource. We're super lucky to have Danny around, super knowledgeable and super attentive. I can't wait for foliage cruising, my favorite time to cruise! Happy trails everyone.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    23,066

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chillininnh View Post
    This forum is an amazing resource. We're super lucky to have Danny around, super knowledgeable and super attentive.
    You're welcome, and thanks for the compliment.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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