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Thread: New Sniper with HyperSpark no start (datalogs included).

  1. #1

    Default New Sniper with HyperSpark no start (datalogs included).

    Hey All. I'm pulling my hair out and I'm hoping someone can help. I have a newly installed Sniper on my SBC 350. I'm using the full HyperSpark system (coil, CD box, distributor) as well as MSD Super Conductor plug wires with Champion RJ12YC plugs gapped to 0.035".

    Some background: I had an Edelbrock Pro Flo 1 setup on the car before and it worked OK. In the past few months I have been going through the whole car and have installed a new American Autowire harness paired with a new Powermaster CS144 140A Alternator, and an Optima Yellow top.

    I installed the Sniper and have been able to get it to run for all of about 60 sec. I got it to idle for a few seconds and as I was checking for leaks and making sure everything looked good it just died as if someone killed the power. After that happened I could not get it to restart again. After a while I was able to get it to run for a little while by feathering the throttle. After reading more about the inherent RFI issues with the Sniper I went and relocated the coil and CD box to the inside of the car. I also went through and installed more ground straps and cleaned all the existing ones. Now I have Battery to Frame, Body to Frame, Block to frame, Block to Body, Block to Core Support. The 12VDC KO (Pink wire) power for the CD box, Distributor, and Sniper unit are all landed on a relay that it trigger by an ignition source of 12VDC and the power is taken straight from the battery and grounded to the body.

    Today when I tried to start it the engine coughed and burbled a few times, but otherwise wouldn't start. This is when I pulled the datalog. I tried it twice and each time it smelled like raw fuel and wouldn't start. I have attached both datalog and my Global File in a ZIP on this post. I really hope its something stupid and I am just being ignorant to it, but I really hope some one can see something I can't.

  2. #2


    You have negative time on your datalogs which means the Sniper is resetting itself. Most likely due to RFI noise.

  3. #3


    You have massive electrical interference. Whenever you have negative values in the time axis you know there's interference. Do you have a battery to engine direct ground? Did you remove all of the unused wires in the Sniper harness?
    69 Camaro
    400 SBC, ProCharger D1SC

  4. #4


    Thanks for the advice guys. I don't have a block to battery ground yet. I'll install that tonight when I get home. I've removed a few of the wires so far. I'm going to be using the the FAN #1 and FAN #2 wires, but haven't installed them just yet.

    Has anyone had any luck using Aluminum Foil as a shield for the comm wires from the ECU? We've had much luck at work using foil as a shield for RS485 comm wires, just curious if it might help.

  5. #5


    OK, I installed a ground from the battery negative to the back of the block. I also wrapped foil around the wires from the back of the Sniper into the firewall/Pass compartment. Now when I crank the engine, the handheld doesn't flash NO DATA intermittently, and the WBO2 actually reads an AFR when cranking. I can smell the fuel, but it won't fire unless I feather the throttle. I pulled another DL. According to my uneducated eyes, I don't see anymore negative time on the DL. Could someone more advanced/skilled take a look at the new DL for me please?

  6. #6


    Looks much better as far as EMI. It's flooded/way rich at startup. I assume you're laptop tuning? If so, got to Fuel>Startup Enrichment. For testing you can probably reduce the fuel by almost half in the 60-120°F Coolant Temp range. The Wizard configurations are way too rich in this area.
    69 Camaro
    400 SBC, ProCharger D1SC

  7. #7


    Thanks for the recommendation gregs69ss. I'll try that today after work and see what happens. Any idea as to what would've caused the Wizard to force such a rich condition?

  8. #8


    The standard Wizard settings are all just rich I believe. A richer setting typically makes initial startup easier on a brand new install and too rich won't burn things up like too lean will, so the factory plays it safe. For what it's worth my custom blow-through carb was set way rich at idle from the factory too. I think it's common for manufacturers to play it safe. You probably want to check your plugs too. They get sooted up really quickly.
    69 Camaro
    400 SBC, ProCharger D1SC

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009


    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  10. #10


    I made the changes that Gregs69ss mentioned and pulled some fuel out of the Startup Enrichment. Once I did that I synced with the ECU and when I turned the key it immediately burbled and sounded like it wanted to start. However, it still wouldn't start without giving it a little throttle. I was able to to get it to start and idle for a bout 3-4 minutes while it was idling. At first the RPM was low ~550-600. I made an idle screw adjustment and it just fell right into a decent idle. I pulled a datalog while it was running. As it was running I made a change to the idle RPM and bumped it from 850-950. I blipped the throttle a bit to see what would happen and the engine died as soon as it returned to idle. Once it died I tried to restart and it wouldn't restart for a bit without more throttle while cranking, only then it would come to life and idle for a bit. At this point, is it just making adjustments to the Startup Enrichment? Or is it an IAC adjustment? I'm still pretty new to this whole EFI tuning, and I really do appreciate all the advice and help from everyone.

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