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Thread: Starts, may or may not run for a few minutes or less, and stall.

  1. #21

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    I provided a datalog & Config File. Here they are again I think... The interface for attachments for this website is very different than others I have posted to. Was that the info you're asking for?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #22
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    Please just answer the two questions. I don't want to download anything and look for it.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  3. #23
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    Your IAC Parked Position % seems very low to me. I'm not sure why it's so low. Yours is off by at least 20 on each number compared to a base tune. Did you mess with the IAC Parked Position %? There are a few options you could try. You could either run the Wizard again which seems the easiest and most logical because there will be no tuning until you need to adjust the IAC at hot idle. Another option would be to tighten the the idle speed screw on the throttle body which would effectively let in more air in because your engine needs more air if your having to feather the throttle. Lastly, you could adjust your IAC Parked Position % via the handheld or the EFI software, but to me that seems probably the hardest based on what I've read. Even if you need to re-run the Wizard I believe your still going to have to adjust the idle speed screw to get the engine running. This is what I would do. I'd re run the Wizard, which would get the proper values in the IAC Parked Position % settings then tighten the idle speed screw a few turns before starting the engine in order to get the engine running. Then back off the idle speed screw if your engine idles really high. Then get the engine up to 160°F then set the IAC.

  4. #24

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    Pretty sure the Wizard won't help. I've rerun it 3 or 4 times and get the same results. No haven't messed with any parameters for anything other than answering Wizard questions. I set a 900 RPM idle in the wizard.

    How do I make this Learn right away I can't get to 160°F because of the idle problem? I think that's where Danny want's me to go, but maybe I missed it in the link. If the terminology is different I stop there because at that point I'm not 100% sure I'm doing it correctly. Like I said I'm learning this system. I'll update again with a start to see what the lbs per hour is.

    Lbs/hour is 30.2 before cranking. It drops to about 9 at what sounds close to a 900 rpm idle. It will get up to 24 or more if I throttle it and RPMs go up to approx 2000. It's constantly adjusting so hard to pin point it at a specific RPM. Plus the engine want's to die. Basically it rises with RPM and drops as rpm decrease. Sorry I can't get more specific because it want's to die and does.
    Last edited by 51coronet; 09-15-2019 at 03:38 PM.

  5. #25
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    What about the other options that I mentioned?
    Last edited by RPnova; 09-15-2019 at 03:35 PM.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 51coronet View Post
    How do I make this Learn right away I can't get to 160°F because of the idle problem?
    The LINK in post #2 also answers the 160°F Learn question.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by RPnova View Post
    What about the other options that I mentioned?
    Good news that helped a lot. I turned the idle screw almost all the way down and slowly worked it back until it started sounding like it wanted to die again. Got up to temp this time and it started to Learn. Was crazy rich reads above 20 until it started Learning then slowly started going down in the teens. Shouldn't the IAC try and keep the engine running no matter what? Learned or not? How can I tell if I have a faulty IAC?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 51coronet View Post
    Shouldn't the IAC try and keep the engine running no matter what? Learned or not?
    No, the idle speed screw/IAC Position % relationship must be properly set for idle control. This is in the Sniper EFI instruction manual.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 51coronet View Post
    Good news that helped a lot. I turned the idle screw almost all the way down and slowly worked it back until it started sounding like it wanted to die again. Got up to temp this time and it started to Learn. Was crazy rich reads above 20 until it started Learning then slowly started going down in the teens. Shouldn't the IAC try and keep the engine running no matter what? Learned or not? How can I tell if I have a faulty IAC?
    You don't have a faulty IAC. You have to set the correct IAC percent for your engine between 2% & 10%. It's impossible for Holley to send out a IAC valve for every engine combination out there.

    Honestly, it does not matter at this point if it's rich or lean. All were trying to do is get the engine to idle so you can let the Sniper Learn and then drive the car. You can always tune the car later via the handheld or the software, plus the learning capabilities will tune the car to the values set in Sniper for idle, cruise & wide open throttle.

    A properly tuned IAC will help your engine idle, and if it's not tuned properly like how you had yours, it will never idle. Have you read the manual on how to tune the idle air control valve? What percent did you set it the IAC to at hot idle? Here is an article to help you set your IAC (LINK).
    Last edited by RPnova; 09-15-2019 at 04:36 PM.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by RPnova View Post
    You don't have a faulty IAC. You have to set the correct IAC percentage for your engine between 2% & 10%.
    Correct. Ensure the idle speed screw on throttle body, is adjusted to achieve an IAC Position of about 5-10% at hot idle.

    It's impossible for Holley to send out a IAC valve for every engine combination out there.
    The IAC valve/motor is the same for every engine. It's the idle speed screw adjustment that's different on every engine.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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