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Thread: Terminator to Dakota Digital VHX gauges using BIM-01-2-HLLY

  1. #1

    Default Terminator to Dakota Digital VHX gauges using BIM-01-2-HLLY

    I've searched and found a few threads, but not one that answers my question. I'm using the BIM-01-2-HLLY to communicate between the Terminator ECU and the gauges. I can get either the 3.5" touchscreen to work or the dash. But not both. I've tried using the CAN1 for the handheld & CAN2 for the dash with CAN1 set to the normal setting (can't remember exactly what it says) and CAN2 set to Racepack. The handheld will work, but not the dash. If I set both CAN1 & CAN2 to race pack then the dash will work. It doesn't matter which connector is connected to what. That's the only way I can get it to work. I'd really like to have both working for the first little while, since I will be breaking in the new engine. After that I'm okay with only using the dash and carrying my laptop with me in case I need it. Has anyone found a way to get both to work? I'm using V4 EFI software. I haven't dared upgrade to V5 yet, sine I'm not exactly sure how to do it, and I really don't want to brick this thing. I need it out of my shop so I can get my Jeep back in there, and get it finished before I go to Moab in September. Thanks for the help.
    EDIT: I should mention that this is the Terminator stealth with trans control, on a BBC 502.
    Last edited by trplxj; 07-24-2019 at 05:29 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Bostwick, GA
    Posts
    207

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    Same issue with using EFILIVE or HPT. Gauges hooked up, no scanner. Gauges unplugged, scanner links. Don't know as anyone has gotten a workaround setup. We are currently trying to use EFI and HPT with CAN Bus Speedhut gauges. No dice. There are discussions over on the TriFive board: https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208690
    Last edited by Chuck L.; 08-04-2019 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Added link
    Injector Inspector
    USAF 1960-1964
    Drag racing since 1955

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the reply & link. Looks like it's a known issue. That's a bummer that they both won't work. I've been using the laptop instead of the 3.5" handheld. The biggest problem I'm having now is no speedometer on the dash. I have everything setup like the Dakota Digital instructions say (I've checked three times now) and still no speedometer. I can pull up the Holley dash on my laptop and the speedometer works there. But no signal to the dash. Or at least not the right one. I'm going to call Dakota on Monday and see what they have to say. I really don't want to spend another $200 to buy the GPS module from Dakota to get it to work. But I might have to. I searched the forums here for a solution and found a couple different threads, but no solution in any of them.

  4. #4

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    Keep hounding Dakota Digital. For whatever reason their software people can't seem to get this box working. Various people have had various channels not working. Eventually they get it working after hounding DD for weeks. Andrew
    IG @projectgattago

  5. #5

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    I've talked to Dakota Digital a couple times now. They've been helpful and giving me a few different things to try. But still no speedometer. I got one more thing to try before I get mad and chew some butt until the give a screaming deal on the GPS unit. But I've got some cooling issues going on and I'm waiting for a new radiator to show up before I can drive it again. My 26 year old radiator just isn't up to cooling this 502. I'll keep this thread updated if I find a solution to the speedometer problem.

  6. #6

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    Did you ever get the Dakota Digital setup to work? I just got their RTX dash and I'm looking forward to it.

  7. #7

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    I'm running an LS3, Terminator EFI system and DD VHX gages. To get Oil Pressure, I had to Tee the pressure port, but I get everything else; except I don't have a gas gauge yet, but I think that's the sending unit. I have T56 transmission and I just went through the DD calibration and that worked very well.

  8. #8

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    I got everything to work on the dash from the Holley ECU except the speedometer. I gave up and bought a Dakota Digital GPS module and hooked it up. Everything works great now. I've put almost 2K miles on it without any issues from the EFI or the dash. I had a few engine & transmission cooling issues early on, but I've got those sorted out now. Now I drive it like it's a rental. And make sure to do my part and use all the gas that the hybrids aren't using. Fuel mileage is terrible, but it sure is fun to drive.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    24,217

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    Quote Originally Posted by trplxj View Post
    Fuel mileage is terrible, but it sure is fun to drive.
    Unfortunately, self-tuning/Learning alone, will not produce good fuel economy. The EFI system (Global File) must be tuned for it. See quote below.

    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Holley's base calibrations are not designed for good fuel economy.
    Good fuel economy is a direct result of the fine-tuning performed on the EFI system.
    NOTE - I've found the following EFI tables to be the most significant areas for improving fuel economy:
    Target Air/Fuel Ratio Table (too rich in cruising area).
    Ignition Timing Table (not enough advance in cruising area & light acceleration area).
    Acceleration Enrichment Tables (way too rich once Fuel Table is self-tuned).
    Coolant Temperature Enrichment & A/F Ratio Offset Tables (base calibrations too rich).
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...8640#post88640 (AFR & Timing Information)

    Remember, the only thing this EFI system self-tunes, is the Base Fuel Table, via the Learn Table.
    You're responsible for everything else, especially the Target A/F Ratio Table & the Base Timing Table.
    A dynamometer is the only real way to determine the optimum ignition timing for your performance engine.
    Most people research it, or just "know" what their engine needs or likes. Especially if it's a popular engine.
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...9354#post79354 (Related Forum Thread)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    https://www.jcna.com/ignition-advanc...requirements-0 (Ignition Advance Curve Factors)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 232°-244° duration/.623" lift/114° LSA camshaft, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series FTI ported intake, BBK 80mm TB, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 200A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/3000 RPM converter, B&M Hammer shifter, FPP aluminum driveshaft, FPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 MT tires.

  10. #10

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    Better mileage would be nice. But I'm not confident enough in my abilities to start playing around with the timing and fuel maps. I'd need someone to help and show me the ropes. Anyone in Northern Utah that's a Holley whiz and willing to help me out? The engine is a GM Performance 502HO crate engine mated to a 4L80E transmission in a 1993 K2500 Suburban.

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