Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: 4500 Sniper throttle blade adjustment?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,081

    Default

    Pay special attention to the center paragraph in blue print:
    Originally Posted by Danny Cabral
    Quick Datalogger Information:
    Always provide data, not just symptoms. Is the AFR & ignition timing optimized? Overlay the datalog onto your Config File.
    Ensure the Target A/F Ratio table is properly programmed for your engine. Ensure the ECU is "Learning" (Learn Table LINK).
    Scroll through the datalog to the problem area. Then look exactly where this happens on the Base Fuel & Timing Tables. Scrutinize:
    RPM, MAP, MAT, TPS, CTS, IAC, Target AFR, AFR Left, CL Comp, Ignition Timing, Duty Cycle, Fuel Flow, Fuel Pressure & Battery.

    Using the Holley Sniper EFI software (LINK), look at where the live cursor moves to during this occurrence, and
    manually tune that area of the Base Fuel Table (enrich or lean) & Base Timing Table (optimize ignition timing).


    I find the most helpful datalog function, is overlaying the datalog on your Config File.
    I'm in the habit of using the datalog Overlay feature every time I review a datalog.
    Click on "Datalog" (on the top Toolbar), "Activate Overlay", then "Open Data Log".
    You can literally "playback" a recorded event, and watch it as it happened on any screen.
    Minimize (shrink) the datalog window, and move it to the bottom of any Config File screen.
    Then click & scroll anywhere on the datalog, and watch it playback on your Config File (EFI software).
    http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...9r10543rev.pdf (Holley EFI Datalogger Instructions)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...s-amp-Datalogs (Datalog Information - Read "NOTES")
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqHO...C6FEA0BB99AF17 (How To Record & Email A Datalog)
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...7531#post77531 (Closed Loop Datalog Tuning - Posts #2, #4 & #6)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  2. #12

    Default

    If you have a 140 AMP alternator and are getting only 12.5V at the battery if idling below 1,000, then you have a wiring issue or possibly a bad alternator. 12.5V is basically a discharge situation. I moved the location of 1-wire on my setup and the battery voltage jumped over .5V at the battery, so I know wiring can make a big difference. How's yours wired up? Battery location? What all is connected directly to the battery?

    Regarding the Ramp Down parameters, as noted by others, please datalog it and post it.

  3. #13

    Default

    It stays around 12.8 once it’s hot at 1000 RPM, anything above 1200 and it’d back to the 13.6-14 volt range. Battery is in trunk. Charge lead is 4 AWG cable I have a Gilmer drive with 45 tooth crank pulley & 18 tooth alternator pulley. So the alternator only runs 2.5 times crank speed. The alternator is almost brand new. It’s a Powermaster. It has to run two Spal fans Meziere 55 GPM water pump Holley 1800-2. Fuel pump, the Sniper, lights, gauges, wipers, vacuum pump, transmission controller, MSD ignition box. And I'm sure I left something out.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ont. Canada
    Posts
    1,320

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Cadder View Post
    I have a Gilmer drive with 45 tooth crank pulley & 18 tooth alternator pulley. So the alternator only runs 2.5 times crank speed. The alternator is almost brand new.
    That's a problem, the alternator needs to spin faster.

  5. #15

    Default

    Car is OK, I don’t have an electrical issue. It’s actually 16 & 45 tooth and at the idle RPM I want it to run it has 13.2 volts. The higher temps get voltage drops that’s the way electrical circuits work. Turning on the Idle Spark fixed the lagging idle when coasting. I just don’t like the way the Idle Spark jumps around.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    1,441

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Cadder View Post
    I just don’t like the way the idle spark jumps around.
    That's half the equation of how idle speed is controlled with EFI. Gary
    Regards, Gary

  7. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Cadder View Post
    Car is OK, I don’t have a electrical issue.
    In my opinion, if your voltage is that low at idle you do, but that's just me. Like I said, moving my charge wire made a huge difference in mine. Or it could just be the alternator speed in your case. It is almost like the alternator has not been "excited" yet at idle. Where is you charge wire routed? Is it a 1-wire alternator? You do have a ton of electrical drain on the system, but that Powermaster should be up to the task. Where are you tapping power for the fans, water pump, fuel pump, etc.?

  8. #18

    Default

    It’s a one wire. All new wiring for the add-ons they are fed from the 00 battery cable. But most have a new independent circuit I added fed by two separate 6 AWG wire with breakers to new fuse panels.

    The alternator is not a racing alternator that has reduced output at low RPM. It’s a full sized 12SI. A fully charged 12 volt battery in good condition at room temperature holds about 12.6 volts. That’s exactly what my battery has off the posts so I know it’s not discharging. It’s definitely excited at idle RPM.

    I cannot gear it any higher with the Gilmer pulley setup without some major modifications. Once the car is up to operating temp, it only puts out 13.4 volts regardless of RPM. But that’s normal because charging systems are designed to reduce voltage as underhood temps increase because battery voltage capacity gets lower with increased temperature.
    Last edited by Mad Cadder; 07-15-2019 at 07:29 AM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ont. Canada
    Posts
    1,320

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mad Cadder View Post
    The alternator is not a racing alternator that has reduced output at low RPM. It’s a full sized 12SI.
    A 12SI alternator is a very old design and does not put out max amps when at idle, even if the idle RPM is correct. The new generation of alternators, like the AD144 are designed to put out a lot more amps at idle. I can get over 100 amps at idle with mine. A buddy used those cogged gears because he also had a mechanical vacuum pump, but we ended up changing it to a V-belt and running it at a proper speed. He was killing his battery when he was out at night. His idle amps are better, but not as good as he would be with a newer design alternator. He is using the same alternator as you are.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,081

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 81 TransAm View Post
    A 12SI alternator is a very old design and does not put out max amps when at idle, even if the idle RPM is correct. The new generation of alternators, like the AD144 are designed to put out a lot more amps at idle.
    Absolutely correct. The Powermaster 12SI was the worst alternator I ever owned. The Ford 3G alternator is an incredible improvement at idle & higher RPM.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: Dominator MPFI & DIS, A/C, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/X-pipe/shorty headers, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Holley has been the undisputed leader in fuel systems for over 100 years. Holley carburetors have powered every NASCAR® Sprint® Cup team and nearly every NHRA® Pro–Stock champion for four decades. Now, Holley EFI is dominating the performance world as well as our products for GM's LS engine. Holley's products also include performance fuel pumps, intake manifolds & engine dress–up products for street performance, race and marine applications. As a single solution, or partnered with products from other Holley companies - Hooker Headers, Flowtech Headers, NOS Nitrous, Weiand, Earl's Performance Plumbing, or Diablosport - Holley products can give you the edge you need over the competition.
Join us