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Thread: Electrical interference between HyperSpark distributor & Sniper.

  1. #11

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    Sorry for the delay getting back to this. I was expecting a notification or something showing I had gotten replies. Thank you all for your input. I haven't had time to get back into it yet, but I'll update when I do and when I figure something out. Love the idea of the AM radio. Pretty cool idea. I'll give that a try. Plug wires are Davis Unified ignition Live Wires. I'm really hoping that it not the issue because these wires are badass. Thank you again all.

    One additional note that maybe an admin can answer. I bought the HyperSpark coil and I'm running it with the coil driver that came with the Sniper. Is this an issue? I plan on getting the CD box when I can afford to, I just don't have it yet. Just a thought.

  2. #12

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    Can anyone tell me if it's OK to run the HyperSpark coil with the coil driver rather than the CD box?

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    From: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/556-150. "The Sniper EFI Coil Driver Module is designed to be used in place of a capacitive discharge box." That said, it does not provide CD functionality (the higher voltage outputs of a CD box). It provides a ground triggered output similar to a points system, but supporting a higher current rating to drive an ignition coil.

    Yes, the coil driver can be used and others have had success with it. HyperSpark coils primary resistance is not that excessive so should be fine. Some users had performance coils with really low primary resistance that caused the coil driver to shutdown due to excessive current draw. Once cooled down it recovered. If this is found to be the case, selecting a coil with a higher primary resistance should prevent the coil driver from shutting down. It'd be nice if the coil driver specifications were published so we would know the minimum coil resistance supported & rated current.
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...oil-Driver-for
    https://forums.holley.com/showthread...092#post105092
    Run a search as there are other threads.

    I was originally going to run a HyperSpark distributor, HyperSpark coil and trigger the coil with the supplied coil driver based on the research I did before purchasing. Ended up ordering the HyperSpark CD box prior to completion of my installation as I was ordering other parts that needed shipping (couldn't be sourced locally) and just added it to the order (damn those online sales...). But it wasn't necessary for my build or driving style.
    1970 XW Fairmont (presented as a GT Falcon Replica), 351 Cleveland with Aussie 302 2V closed chamber heads. Edelbrock F351 2V dual plane intake manifold. Camtech CT21544 (234/238@050", 570/579lift, 2600-6200rpm quoted range, 110lobes) 1.73:1 roller rockers. AOD Transmission. Ford 9" 3.5 Diff ratio. Pacemaker #PH4050 2v Tri-Y extractors to 2.5" Hi Flow V-Tex merge pipe with dual 2.5" exhaust through Hooker Aero Chamber Mufflers. Holley Sniper EFI 4150 Super Sniper 650 with HyperSpark Ignition.

  4. #14

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    Thank you. I had read about it being for use in place of the CD box, and knew it was merely to convert the signal from the system into a trigger for grounding the coil. What made me wonder was that somewhere, I saw it said for use with canister style coils or something to that affect. Thank you again for the insight on the coil driver.

    Currently, I have a disposable aluminum pie pan standing between the Sniper and the distributor, and that seems to help. We, in order to try to pinpoint the issue tried shielding a couple of suspected cables with aluminum foil and removing the pie pan. I made it about two blocks before I had to put the pie pan back. I'll keep posting my findings as I troubleshoot this.

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    Maybe a bad ignition lead, ignition boot, rotor, rotor cap. Particularly if placing a shield between the distributor and Sniper resolves your issue. Try looking at the distributor at night or in the dark to see if you can see arcing around the distributor/ignition leads/etc. It could also be a rotor phasing issue (internally in the distributor) if set incorrectly and make sure you're running the correct "resistor" spark plugs for your application. If you're running a metal air cleaner cover, you could try running an ground connection between the cover, the base, the air cleaner element metal frame and the engine block to help provide an additional ground plane around the Sniper. Hide it at the back or internally so it's not seen and make sure the connection is suitable (spade connections for example) so you can still remove it easily.

    Perform a few searches on the forum for RFI, EMI, Noise, etc. There are other posts they may help reveal what to look into. Additionally, Chris has a good writeup here:
    https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro...r-rfi-problems
    https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro...fi-instruction
    1970 XW Fairmont (presented as a GT Falcon Replica), 351 Cleveland with Aussie 302 2V closed chamber heads. Edelbrock F351 2V dual plane intake manifold. Camtech CT21544 (234/238@050", 570/579lift, 2600-6200rpm quoted range, 110lobes) 1.73:1 roller rockers. AOD Transmission. Ford 9" 3.5 Diff ratio. Pacemaker #PH4050 2v Tri-Y extractors to 2.5" Hi Flow V-Tex merge pipe with dual 2.5" exhaust through Hooker Aero Chamber Mufflers. Holley Sniper EFI 4150 Super Sniper 650 with HyperSpark Ignition.

  6. #16

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    I've already read that write-up and need to look through a few things. Air cleaner lid and base are both aluminum and the base seats on the Sniper (sealed with an o-ring, but metal to metal when o-ring is compressed. While the lid should be grounded through the stud. That said, I'm willing to try anything, so I will throw some jumpers to ground and see what happens.

    HyperSpark Dist, Coil, Cap, Wires, etc., are all new, but clearly that doesn't mean they are flawless, so I'll be trying different wires and inspect everything else.

    One weird thing. Today is the first I have driven the car to work sans Carburetor (I.E. with the Sniper setup including the pie pan) and as I went through an area where my cell service normally freaks out, the Sniper freaked out and I thought the car was going to die after the huge backfire out the exhaust. Then it cleared up and ran fine.

    Rereading Chris' Write-up on RF problems, raised a question that originally cam up when I watched the Holley HyperSpark ignition install video. They use the little plastic deal to properly phase the rotor and locate #1 cylinder on the cap. Then after they start the truck and check timing with a timing light, it matches what the number in the handheld, but say that it doesn't, you just loosen the distributor and rotate it until the number matches. Well after the install, I had to advance the timing to match the 18° shown on the handheld, but like 6°. By doing so, doesn't this negate the phasing accomplished with the plastic cap tool and in turn potentially cause a lot of extra noise as discussed in Chris' document?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Ct
    Posts
    101

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    They probably got lucky and it landed where it needed to be. You have to check it to something. I'm only guessing, but the phasing is from the rotor to the pickup device in the distributor.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    22,709

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pecker View Post
    Well after the install, I had to advance the timing to match the 18° shown on the handheld, but like 6°. By doing so, doesn't this negate the phasing accomplished with the plastic cap tool...
    No. Final ignition timing synchronization is performed by turning the distributor. The plastic tool is for getting it close enough to install in the engine.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #19

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    OK, then I did it right. I guess by setting the timing to match the number in the ECU, it knows what the offset is and makes all timing adjustments based on that.

    I have made a couple of other changed that seem to have helped after reading some info on EFI System Pro regarding RF and EMI. My plug wires were running right next to my coolant temp sensor located in the head between cylinders 6 and 8. I have relocated it to a port in the intake to move it and its lead away from any other electrical wires or components.

    Probably even more importantly, Chris talks a lot about interference from the alternator. In reading about this, it dawned on me that I have run the main sniper positive and negative leads in the same loom as my 6 Ga charge wire that runs from the alternator back to my rear mounted battery. I pulled these leads from that loom and ran them across the floor and reconnected them to the battery to test this. I was able to drive the car to a car show without the pie pan. Seemed like a win until I went to leave a restaurant and the car shut off while driving through the parking lot. After about 6 restarts and it shutting down, I placed the pan back in place and was able to drive home without incident.

    This leads me to think that my plug wires may be partly to blame. While they are brand new and supposed to be very high quality, they may be putting out signals that are causing problems. I may pick up a cheap AM radio as Chis suggests and do some testing before spending more money on another set of wires and I don't have any other wires I could try. I'll let you all know how this goes.

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    Good to hear your working through steps to fault find & rectify. Frustrating while it's having problems but you will be rewarded for your efforts with that eureka moment when you find the cause. Is the pie tin earthed or just touching the intake manifold providing an earth? As a test, isolate the pie tin and so it's not earthed (in a zip lock plastic bag or electrical tape). Interested to see if the pie tin is providing a ground plane or just reflecting RFI away from the Sniper ECU. It does sound very directional from the distributor. Make sure to use a little dielectric grease around the inside of the boot (not the electrical connections, just the area between the boot and post).
    1970 XW Fairmont (presented as a GT Falcon Replica), 351 Cleveland with Aussie 302 2V closed chamber heads. Edelbrock F351 2V dual plane intake manifold. Camtech CT21544 (234/238@050", 570/579lift, 2600-6200rpm quoted range, 110lobes) 1.73:1 roller rockers. AOD Transmission. Ford 9" 3.5 Diff ratio. Pacemaker #PH4050 2v Tri-Y extractors to 2.5" Hi Flow V-Tex merge pipe with dual 2.5" exhaust through Hooker Aero Chamber Mufflers. Holley Sniper EFI 4150 Super Sniper 650 with HyperSpark Ignition.

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