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Thread: Electrical interference between HyperSpark distributor & Sniper.

  1. #1

    Default Electrical interference between HyperSpark distributor & Sniper.

    Just installed my Sniper system on my 383 SBC including the HyperSpark distributor and HyperSpark coil. Drove it for the first time last night and after about 2 miles it surged, popped & died. I restarted it and it was not running well then popped and died again. I got it into a parking spot finally and called my buddy to help diagnose. He suggested placing aluminum foil between the Sniper unit and the distributor. I got an aluminum carryout pan from a pizza place that was near where I was parked and stood it in front of the distributor. The car started and ran fine after that. Obviously, I cannot move the Sniper or the distributor. What in the world would cause this? I can fabricate a shield, but this seems weird. My next step will be to go through all of the wiring with a fine toothed comb and separate any of those that don't play well together, but I think we're already good on that end.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    Bostwick, GA
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    176

    Default

    Plug wires?
    Injector Inspector
    USAF 1960-1964
    Drag racing since 1955

  3. #3

    Default

    I suppose there could be some sort of problem with your install, but most Snipers do not have that issue. First thing to do is to make sure you don't have any Sniper wires running anywhere close to any plug wires. You could have a problem with your plug wires or your spark plugs. Could also be an issue with the rotor in the distributor. RF issues are hard to debug without super expensive tools. Holley probably needs to improve the RF protection on the Sniper, since this seems to be a fairly common issue. I don't know if they are working on it or not.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    As a last resort, try moving an AM transistor radio over the running engine to possibly locate troublesome interference (LINK).
    However, I highly suggest you watch the entire video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIi2_lCcazs (EFI Electrical Noise)
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    SEVERN, Ontario
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    That will work very well Danny, but where do you find one of those now a days? LOL!

  6. #6
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    They can be purchased on eBay, or be homemade (LINK/LINK/LINK). Radio Shack sells inexpensive AM/FM Pocket Radios (LINK). I have a suspicion that a CB radio might work too.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    SEVERN, Ontario
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    OK LOL, I was just joking with you Danny. It's cheaper to buy one instead of wasting time building one in MY opinion. Joey.S
    Last edited by Joey.S; 07-10-2019 at 07:17 PM.

  8. #8
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    I agree...
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    5

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    I'm running the Sniper EFI BBD on an '88 Jeep. I installed it right after it came out and they hadn't started selling the HyperSpark distributor for the Jeep (AMC) 258 yet. I was thinking of buying an MSD (Magnetic) Distributor instead, so I could use the ignition timing in the Sniper. I spoke with tech support and they recommended against it. Their reason was that the Magnetic pickup generated a lot of RF noise that was known to be an issue for the Sniper. They said to wait for the HyperSpark to come out. It's design was supposed to minimize/eliminate that problem. They've released the HyperSpark for the 258, but now I'm concerned that it may have the problem too. I'll be interested to see how this turns out for you.

  10. #10
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    No, the more robust Hall-Effect sensors are preferred because they're not susceptible to EMI/RFI interference/noise,
    and their digital square-wave signal strength is consistent, regardless of RPM (unlike the VR magnetic sine-wave).
    Also, the VR magnetic pickup signal is weaker at cranking speeds.

    Another problem with using VR Magnetic sensors, is there's more tuning work. Hall-Effect is "set & forget".
    The VR Magnetic Sensor Type "Filtering" & "Minimum Signal Voltage" parameters need to be programmed.
    http://documents.holley.com/199r10676rev.pdf (Magnetic Crank/Cam Input Filtering Parameters, Page 2)
    http://forums.holley.com/showthread....4450#post54450 (Example: Wrong Magnetic Parameters, Post #25)

    Hall-Effect: 3-wire, square wave signal (digital), pulse generation
    VR Magnetic: 2-wire, sine wave signal (inductive), voltage generation
    http://www.electronicproducts.com/El...g_for_you.aspx (Hall-Effect vs VR Magnetic)

    In my opinion, if a Holley EFI user isn't familiar with the Magnetic Ignition Type "Minimum Signal Voltage" &
    "Filtering" parameters (in System Parameters/Custom Ignition Parameters), then they have no business using
    VR/magnetic pickup type crank & cam sensors. This is the problem with using magnetic pickup type sensors,
    there's more tuning work/adjustment involved. Hall-Effect sensors are "set & forget", very easy to use.
    May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ.
    '92 Ford Mustang GT: 385" SBF, Dart SHP 8.2 block, TFS TW 11R 205 heads, 11.8:1 comp, TFS R-Series intake, Dominator MPFI & DIS, 36-1 crank trigger/1x cam sync, 160A 3G alternator, Optima Red battery, A/C, 100HP progressive dry direct-port NOS, Spal dual 12" fans/3-core Frostbite aluminum radiator, Pypes dual 2.5" exhaust/off-road X-pipe/shorty headers, S&W subframe connectors, LenTech Strip Terminator wide-ratio AOD/2800 RPM converter, M4602G aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.31 gears, Cobra Trac-Lok differential, Moser 31 spline axles, '04 Cobra 4-disc brakes, '93 Cobra booster & M/C, 5-lug Bullitt wheels & 245/45R17 tires.

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